The insulation is made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). This link will give you plenty of info on PVC:
http://www.buildinggreen.com/features/pvc/pvc.html Assuming that something does leach out of the insulation, due to the short contact time how much can possibly make it into your CS? Regards, George Martin On Sun, 3 Dec 2000 18:04:40 -0700, James Osbourne, Holmes wrote: =>What is the insulation plastic? What is it, if anything, leaching into the =>water? => =>James Osbourne Holmes => =>FTNWO => => -----Original Message----- =>From: Ode Coyote [mailto:[email protected]] =>Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 9:16 AM =>To: [email protected] =>Subject: Re: CS>trouble making CS => => Just fitting a length of empty insulation that's long enough to reach the =>water and submerge an inch or even less stirs up a tornado even in a quart =>jar. => Stirring plain old water is not like stirring paint. It has little =>viscosity, virtually no friction or adhesion to a container, a fair amount =>of cohesion to transfer energy to itself from a small stirring surface and =>a lot of mass. Once it gets going it keeps going quite easily. => Within minutes the water will be rotating at nearly the speed of the =>stirrer even if it's fairly straight and short. => If the motor shaft is small , use smaller wire insulation. It should be =>small enough to have to stretch a bit when stuck on the motor shaft. No =>glue is needed. => =>Shrink tubing can be used to increase diameter of motor shafts ..and can =>adapt things in other ways...or as the stirrer itself if it's stiff enough. => Ken => =>At 11:11 AM 12/2/00 -0600, you wrote: =>>On Sat, 02 Dec 2000 09:47:40 -0600 "Robert L. Berger" =>><[email protected]> writes: =>> =>>> Russ; =>>> One must secure about a 4" length (or longer) of #14 copper house =>>> wire that has a plastic sheath. =>> =>>Solid core, right? =>> =>>> Then strip off about 1/4" of insulation and clamp the bare wire into =>>> a vise. =>>> If the wire is not straight give it a heft tug with a pair of =>>> pliers. Then =>>> slide the insulation off another 1/4". =>> =>>So 1/2" copper is exposed, right? =>> =>>> Cut the wire to about 2 1/2" =>>> long =>>> near the vise end as the end with no copper wire will slide on to =>>> the motor =>>> shaft. =>> =>>You mean the insulation should be sild off the wire an additional 1/4" =>>AFTER the wire is cut to 2.5", thus leaving 1/4" of empty sleeve at the =>>end oppostite the vise, right? =>> =>>> Now on the end with the copper make a 15 to 20 deg. bend =>>> about 3/4" =>>> from the copper end. =>> =>>Do you attach the 1/4" of insulation sleeve to the motor shaft w/crazy =>>glue (as I know of no mechanical hose clamp that's that small)? #14 =>>insulation is bigger than the tiny shaft on the motor I bought. I'm also =>>unsure about stirring w/ bare copper, as friction between the copper & =>>water will cause some charging & colloidalization of the copper. Since =>>you're already allowing for a couple inches of plastic in the water, and =>>plastic is what's being glued to the shaft, why not just drill a tiny =>>hole (one that fits the motor shaft *snugly*) into a narrow stip is rigid =>>plastic (of the same dimensions as a paint stirring stick) and glue that =>>to the shaft? For that matter, my original idea was just to use =>>wood--e.g., a paint stirrer--since I'm doubtful as to the durability of =>>the glue bond to plastic. =>> =>>Regards, Russ =>> =>> =>>-- =>>The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. =>> =>>To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: =>>[email protected] -or- [email protected] =>>with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line. =>> =>>To post, address your message to: [email protected] =>>Silver-list archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html =>>List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]> =>> =>> => => =>
