Dear Dottie,
Some years ago, early in our CS investigations,
we did investigate the use of silver coins. The only truly
satisfactory successes we achieved were by soldering two pure silver
wires ( 14 gauge or larger) on to each coin (about .75 spacing) and
suspending them to a satisfactory depth, at selected spacings. They
yielded very satisfactory results.
One word of caution: If you decide to execute this
procedure, do remember you CANNOT use commercial silver solder....as it
incorporates too many impurities. The required technique is to "spot"
solder the wire in place using a highly concentrated heat-targeting of
the wireXcoin interface so that as the melting temperature of the
silver is achieved and "puddling" occurs at the heat-concentration
point----one is prepared (and capable of performing) for a rapid removal
of the ;heat source----this to facilitate a satisfactory "welded
joint". This technique does, in fact, require some, limited,
expertise; but is within the capacity of almost anyone with developed
soldering/gas welding talents.
Sincerely, Brooks
Bradley.
ps. To facilitate proper success, it is most adviseable to use a
suitable clamping system to hold the wire in proper contact with the
coin surface. We used asbestos sheeting strips held down with large
alligator clips. Other, high-temp plastics could be substituted. You
CAN actually perform the union without using an insulating interface but
it does complicate things somewhat because of the "heat-sink" effect of
the alligator clips.
Dottie Glenn wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Hi Bob -Thanks for the response. My thought using the silver coins
> is, they are .9999 pure silver, weight 1 oz., and are 1-1/2" diameter
> and they will last a very long time. I'm assuming they will set down
> in the water all but about 1/4". They were actually given to me, so
> cost is nothing. As I understand it, they are worth $7 each currently
> - not such a bad price for long use I'd say. I was planning on
> attaching them with aligator clips to the sides of the glass
> container. The clips will be attached to wires that run to a 6 volt
> dc transformer.
>
> I guess I'll have to visit Radio Shack to explore your stirring
> suggestions. I'll let you know just what I can come up with. After
> all is said and done, I'd probably be better off just buying a
> pre-made one! However, this experimentation is good for me!
>
> Sorry to confound you with the coins, but I think it would be hard to
> beat their purity and longevity.
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Robert L. Berger"
> Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Subject: Re: CS>generic co-op
> Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 15:15:01 -0500
> Dottie;
> I don't know if I can help you, but here are my thoughts.
> Oh for goodness sakes, why are you using coins. I have no experience
> with
> coins. By going off on a tangent from what is generally being done you
> have
> raised more questions than shown on you post. It is so much easier to
> work with
> wire.
> Sorry, but if you want to work with coins you are on your own as I
> have never
> mounted coins to stand up to stirring. You probably paid more for the
> coins that
> you would have for the wire. I don't know their size, I don't know how
> you
> support them. This CS process is apredictable chemical reaction, when
> all of the
> paramters are under control. It is a mathamatical problem. The wet
> area of the
> anode determines the ideal amount of current for which the regulator
> should be
> set.
> To make a constant current module will cost all of about $2.00. It
> consists of a
> LM317T semiconductor and a resistor the value of which is determined
> by the
> amount current that one wants to regulate. This depends on the surface
> area of
> sliver in the water.
> > I'd like to make a quart at a time. Wal-Mart has a 50 oz plastic
> > container in the area were they had dinner plates etc, for about
> $5.00. It has
> > a plastic lid that is excelent for mouning things. It has some metal
> hardware
> > that I took off and threw away.
> The stir motor is a 1 1/2 volt DC motor from Radio Shack $1.00. with
> the plastic
> insulation for a #14 copper house wire. One needs about 3 ohms of
> resistance in
> one motor lead to slow it down. Bubbling DOES NOT WORK!!!!!!!
> Glue the motor on top of the plastic container lid, attach the coins
> some way to
> the lid.
> > Your spacing of 3" is ok, but you need some way of measuring cell
> current,
> > such as a digital multimeter. Only after making a few brews were you
> have
> > logged thae data can you go by time, and then only is the
> conductuivuty of the
> > Distilled water is reasonably the same.
> I don't what to be considered as a "party pooper" but the grade of CS
> that you
> make will dependon the effort that you take to do it correctly.
> What are you using for a power supply?
> Please do not hesitate to ask more questions. I will be glad to answer
> the best
> that I can. When you go through the archives read my posts on making
> cs.
> "Ole Bob"
> >
> >
> >
> > Also, about the constant stirring. Did I undertand you to say that
> the
> > stirring is more beneficial than the fish tank bubbler? If yes, just
> where
> > or how can I obtain this sort of a device?
> >
> > I liked Dr. Jons instructions because they were fairly clear to a
> layperson
> > like myself. But still, these nagging issues!
> >
> > I realize these questions are probably pretty elemental to you, but
> I mean,
> > I'm starting at the bottom here and find conflicting info just
> everywhere!
> > Thanks for your help! By the way, I have been going thru the
> archives, but
> > it's pretty slow going and I have some rather urgent applications to
> attend,
> > so I really do appreciate the help.
> >
> > Dot
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: "Robert L. Berger"
> > Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> > To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> > Subject: Re: CS>generic co-op
> > Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 19:31:21 -0500
> >
> > Dot;
> >
> > Basically to make good CS one needs to control the elecrode spacing,
> wet
> > length of the electrodes, ans use constant stirring.
> >
> > There are generally two system types used; constant voltage and
> constant
> > current. Each requires it's own set of cut-off paramters.
> >
> > CONSTANT VOLTAGE;
> > Uses batteries or a power supply that has a fixed voltage, and the
> > current in the brew cell is monitored with a digital multimeter in
> one
> > lead of the cell. For a small amount 8 to 16 ounces with two #14
> silver
> > wires as electrode the shut-off current is between 3 to 4 ma. for
> larger
> > amounts of DW then then current must be adjusted for the increased
> > electrode surface area.
> >
> > CONSTANT CURRENT;
> > This uses a fixed power supply of 27 to 40 volts (can be higher) but
> in
> > one cell lead is placed a semiconductor unit that is wire as a
> constant
> > current source. This reduces the cell voltage by limiting the cell
> > current until the current reachs the set limiting value. At that
> point
> > the current stays constant.
> >
> > In both systems constant stirring has been proven and has now been
> added
> > to all of the commercial units. Bubbling of air through the CS does
> not
> > supply the velocity between the electrodes to stop agglomeration of
> the
> > silver particles. This can de demonstrated with the laser pointer.
> It
> > shows up in the brightness of the Tyndall beam. The brighter the
> beam
> > the larger the particles and we do notwant that. In fact the very
> best
> > CS will have no T.E.
> >
> > I hope this help answer your questions. If you have more send them.
> Also
> > visit the archives for aditional info.
> >
> > I appreciate Dr. Jon's input even if it is antiquated. It is making
> more
> > people aware of CS. Remember he is an M.D. and so wemust allow him
> some
> > leaway :-)
> >
> > "Ole Bob:
> >
> > --
> > The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal
> silver.
> >
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>
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> >
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> >
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