Timing a batch is completely useless unless the exact same water is used at the exact same temperature and timed to the second. Just a varience of a few microsiemens of initial water conductance can change the timing by an hour, more or less.
Further, simple variations in water circulation will throw everything WAY off in an entirely unpredictable manner. The bigger the batch and the longer the generator is run, the further off it can get.
A stirring device will help a lot but you'll still only get to within a great big ballpark of repeatability that includes the bleachers and parking lot. Hooking up an ammeter will help considerably. [and you'll see how varied the timing can get... stir and watch the current change dramatically]
The CS300 works exactly like a pack of batteries. [batteries are also 'constant voltage' devices where current varies with the load or conductivity]
$149 is a lot to pay for something that does exactly the same unpredictable thing as a pack of batteries.
As bad as a meter is, yes..get a PWT, use it every 30 seconds towards the last part of the timing range and you might have a prayer. [and you'll graphically see everything the CS300 generator can't do]
The TDS meter is probably repeatable but the courseness of the resolution will be somewhat of a factor. [Read it at a point where it can't quite decide what to say?]
The CSPro system?
WARNING!! THIS IS A VERY POWERFUL SYSTEM! FORGETTING TO "STOP" THE PROCESS
CAN RESULT IN DAMAGING THE TANK AND ELECTRODES. ALLOWING THE
ELECTRODES TO "TOUCH" WITH POWER APPLIED CAN DAMAGE THE ELECTRONIC
COMPONENTS. 'CS PRO' ASSUMES NO LIABILITY FOR DAMAGES DUE TO NOT
FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS OR FROM NEGLIGENT OPERATION!
Apparently there is no current regulation in these either. If there was, you could short it out without harming anything.
If current is not held constant, timing is useless as above.
Also, I see the larger particle [larger is still not huge] yellowish CS is being touted as the "very best".
If it's yellow at a mere 10 PPM, it's being made with too high a current density [too fast/ too high a current for the electrode size]
Not that a pale yellow CS is "bad"
Installing a bubbler to stir will help considerably.
Install an ammeter so you can tell where you are at any given time.
If you open the box on the generator [It would be interesting to see what's in there], you'll probably see a wire that connects to all the electrodes on one side and another that connects to the other side. Snip one of those wires [before it branches] and hook up a digital ammeter in series. Digital multimeters that include an ammeter function can be had for under $10
I don't know what "Pulse Phasic" means. Perhaps the frequency and wave form of the AC line has been modified, so, the ammeter set on 'AC milliamps' [or amps?] will probably not be accurate as the RMS values will be different, but it will still be repeatable.
ken
At 09:25 PM 10/25/02 EDT, you wrote:
>>>>
thanks for some understanding on the tds/pwt meters.... but, once again the newbie needs some advice... i posted this on another cs board, but as of yet i've had no response, so i'd like to pose it here too: about 2 months ago we<<<<
purchased the cs300 to produce our own cs, but soon found out that
making 8oz. at a time was too time consuming, esp. when we were using
large quantities ourselves, and giving it away to family and friends
by the gallon (great reports by the way)... anyway, within a month i
knew our needs far exceeded this small unit's output unless i was to
spend every minute brewing cs... so, a month ago we purchased a cspro
to make a gallon at a time... this has been wonderful, and out of my
first 5 gallons, i've given 3 of them away... today i went to brew
another gallon for ourselves (the 6th) and i noticed that the rods
were not looking the same as with the first 5 gals.... lots more of
the dark stuff, none of the 'smokey' silver in the water, etc... i
realize the 'tds' meter doesn't register the true ppm, but i do use
it as a comparison guage, and was getting a reading of 000 to 001
after 15 mins.... now 15 mins. would normally bring me a brew of 10
or better... anyway, here's my question(s): how many gallons should
i be getting from .999 silver 12 guage wire? is the wire solid
silver or overlay, and when the coating is gone, does the black flaky
stuff appear? in cases such as this do i brew it longer, or do i
just replace the silver rods? i was thinking i could supply everyone
with tons of cs, with such a minimal cost (and i guess it still is,
considering a gal. goes for about $75.-$100.)... this new generator
is so great, but i did think i'd get more than 5-6 gallons from one
set of silver rods... please give me some indications as to
what 'normal' is where the lifespan of the silver rods are concerned,
as i certainly don't want to be throwing them out if there is still
life in them... but, i don't want to brewing stuff for 45 min. just
to get the ppm up either... i know that i must certainly invest in
a 'pwt' meter, and will do so as soon as i can come up with the
funds... you're input is greatly appreciated as always... in advance,
thanks! deb
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