I don't care to get into it other than to say just because you call a frog a
duck does not make him a duck....

JH
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: [smartBridges] Grounding?!


> I thought we all had a long conversation not too long ago and was
determined
> that Lightning CAN NOT cause E.M.P.
>
> Michael
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nish Park" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 9:45 AM
> Subject: RE: [smartBridges] Grounding?!
>
>
> > Wow. This are nice tips John. We will make sure to include them in our
> > product documentation to help others. Thanks.
> >
> > Nish
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Hokenson
> > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 3:01 PM
> > To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> > Subject: Re: [smartBridges] Grounding?!
> >
> > I've been involved with designing and installing communications systems
> > for
> > over thirty years, are here is my take on the proper installlation and
> > grounding of the SmartBridge units (and WISP equipment in general)....
> >
> > TOWER TOP ACCESS POINTS/BRIDGES
> >
> > 1.    In any area that is prone to lightning, grounding and protection
> > of
> > the antenna port is a must.  With the units that are fed from the ground
> > with PoE (power over ethernet) and an antenna jack, first--screw a high
> > quality lightning supressor on the N-female jack on the radio--the
> > Polyphaser PSX-ME is what I prefer.  It has a male connector to screw
> > onto
> > the radio and a female for attachment of the antenna cable.  Since the
> > case
> > of the radio is plastic and does not ground to the tower (not really a
> > good
> > idea in my opinion but we're stuck with it), use a grounding kit to
> > securely
> > bond the body of the protector to the metal leg of the tower.
> > 2.    I am suspecting that many of the radio failures are due to induced
> > emp
> > from nearby lightning strikes on the ethernet cable itself which is
> > acting
> > as an antenna to pick up the pulse.  For this reason I suggest the use
> > of
> > outdoor shielded cat5--the kind with icky pick embedded in the inner
> > layer
> > among the pairs, a first pvc insulation layer, an aluminum jacket with
> > additional icky pick and finally an outer PVC jacket.  At the radio end,
> > terminate the connection as close as you can get it to the radio--the
> > new
> > style radios I would terminate it in the weatherproof splice box.  You
> > will
> > need a bonding kit to attach a ground wire to the aluminuum
> > jacket--these
> > are commonly made by 3M and available from Graybar.  Using a #10 or
> > larger
> > wire attached to the stud on the grounding kit, bond the shield to the
> > leg
> > of the tower, keeping the ground wire as short as possible.  The best
> > way I
> > have found to do this is to assemble the grounding kit to the shield
> > about
> > 6" from the end of the cable where the pairs will be attached, then
> > slide
> > some Panduit DB shrink with hot glue sealant inside over the splice and
> > shrink it down to weather seal the bond.  Since you also need the ground
> > for
> > the antenna protector, you can clamp a phospher bronze ground clamp to
> > the
> > leg of the tower directly below the radio and attach both the ground
> > from
> > the antenna protector and the cat5 ground to the same point.  Graybar
> > has
> > the Panduit shrink and ground clamps as well.
> > 3.    Install another bonding kit on the cat5 where it leaves the tower,
> > again you can seal it with Panduit DB shrink.
> > 4.    If the run up the tower is more than 150' (50M) or so, I would
> > probably bond the shield in the middle of the run as well.
> > 5.    Where the cat5 terminates, again bond the shield to a ground....#8
> > or
> > larger copper wire back to the tower ground is preferable, lacking that
> > the
> > building ground....and make sure someone has bonded that to the tower
> > ground
> > with #6 or larger copper.
> > 6.    Lastly, between the end of the shielded cat5 and the PoE injector,
> > install a good quality PoE surge suppressor--Motorola makes a nice one
> > for
> > their Canopy products and is available from Tessco for about $40.  Make
> > sure
> > the ground stud on it is tied to the same ground feeding the end of the
> > cat5
> > shield.
> > 7.    Code generally requires that the protector beinstalled where the
> > cat5
> > enters the building, so the place to terminate the shielded cat5 and
> > install
> > the Motorola cat5 protector is on the outside of the wall, and
> > transition
> > there to normal cat5 in to your power injector.
> >
> > ROOFTOP ACCESS POINTS/BRIDGES
> >
> > 1.    Many times either an access point or cpe radio will be installed
> > on
> > the top of a commercial building or home.  The same rules apply with
> > some
> > modifications because of the installation.
> > 2.    If it is a customer radio that is not as critical as an access
> > point,
> > you may choose to dispense with the lightning supressor on the
> > antenna--but
> > DO at the minimum bond the shield of the coax to the galvanized metal
> > support mast or support structure or DSS mount.  One option for this
> > would
> > be to loosen the lock nut for the N female connector on the radio and
> > install a piece of sheet metal under the nut to attach a ground
> > wire--we've
> > done this and it works well.
> > 3.    You still need to use shielded cat5 and bond the shield to the
> > common
> > antenna ground point as described in the previous section on tower
> > grounding.
> > 4.    Since the antenna support is most likely not grounded in this
> > instance, you need to attach a #6 copper wire to the support stucture
> > (the
> > 5/16 bolts securing the tripod to the mast is a good spot) and bring it
> > down
> > along with the cat 5 to where things enter the building.
> > 5.    Attach the #6 wire to the ground lug on the cat5 protector, along
> > with
> > the cat5 shield, then continue to the closest attachment point to the
> > building system ground.
> >
> > INDOOR ACCESS POINTS AND BRIDGES
> >
> > 1.    In those cases where the installation is using an indoor unit with
> > coax out to an outdoor antenna, I would direct you to a typical
> > installation
> > of a certified SmartBridge CPE:
> >         http://www.vircom.net/pictures/res-install/res-install.htm
> > 2.    In the case of an indoor access point, the only change I would
> > suggest
> > is installation of a Polyphaser PSX instead of simply a bulkhead ground
> > at
> > the entrance point.
> >
> > Hope this helps a few of you out there avoid unnecessary failures.
> >
> > ==========================================
> > John Hokenson, Operations Manager
> > VIRCOM.NET
> > reply to:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 425-558-0674   bellevue
> > 425-432-8172   king county
> > 206-341-9421   seattle
> > 800-806-7446   toll-free
> > 425-432-8173   fax
> > WWW.VIRCOM.NET
> > giving you the world since 1994
> > ==========================================
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "David Berndt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:50 PM
> > Subject: [smartBridges] Grounding?!
> >
> >
> > > A bit of a mid-night rant here.
> > >
> > > I've been thinking on a lot of the failures we hear talked about here
> > on
> > > the list, the quesitons about lightning, potential lightning strikes,
> > > lightning striking near by. Alot of the answers seem to be a
> > combination
> > of
> > > finger crossing and some black magic.
> > >
> > > So what I'd like to see to rectify some of these issues is smartbridge
> > > publish a document about proper grounding. Where do we need
> > grounds/surge
> > > protectors/lightning arrestors, the differences between them, etc.
> > >
> > > I know these things are all dictated by the local building code and
> > the
> > > like wherever you happen to be using the product. But how about some
> > sort
> > > of a document that is intended as a bare minimum/recommended practices
> > > document to get all the installs to be put together in a fairly
> > similar
> > way
> > > and help correct some of the new newbie mistakes and take a bit of the
> > > black magic out of this.
> > >
> > > This could be a fairly simple diagram of a few different sample setups
> > of
> > > the outdoor equipment. I am especially interested in the total
> > equipment,
> > > is there a polyphaser in there? Should the cat5 be grounded when using
> > > sheilded cat5, otherwise? Surge protector on the cat5? before/after
> > the
> > POE
> > > device? etc etc.
> > >
> > > A recommended parts list wouldnt be horrible either. I do not want to
> > see
> > > this enforced, but more documentation and standardization would make
> > things
> > > clearer for everyone, provide a quick way to answer peoples questions
> > and
> > > maybe make everyones systems a bit more stable.
> > >
> > > Hope that made some degree of sense.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
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