Scrapple
Pork Mush -- The Pennsylvania Treat
By Lynn
Kerrigan
Unless you live in the Middle Atlantic states, you may have never had the
dubious pleasure of breakfasting on scrapple - a fried slice of pork-mush.
Often erroneously called Philadelphia Scrapple, it's really a dish that
originated in the Eastern Pennsylvania farmlands of German born settlers - far
from the city of Brotherly Love.
It's dictionary defined as "cornmeal mush made with the meat and broth of
pork, seasoned with onions, spices and herbs and shaped into loaves for
slicing and frying." The word, scrapple originates from "scrap" or "scrappy"
meaning made up of odds and ends for that's exactly what it is - boiled,
ground leftover pig scraps with cornmeal and spices thrown in. Scrapple lovers
think of it as food for the gods. Anti-scrapplers consider it a culinary
abomination.
Scrapple is the unique creation of the Pennsylvania Dutch, and therefore
only quasi-American as the immigrants combined their German heritage with New
World ingredients. The term "Pennsylvania Dutch" is a corrupted form of
Pennsylvania Deutsche, mostly transplanted Rhineland farmers who worked hard
and ate heartily. They are frugal people and many of their dishes make
imaginative use of every part of the butchered hog's anatomy. Scrapple is one
of them.
But what parts of the hog go into the creation of scrapple? After the ham,
bacon, chops and other cuts of meat are taken from the butchered pig - what
remains are fixings for scrapple - including the meat scraped off the head.
Scrapple may contain pork skin, pork heart, pork liver, pork tongue - even
pork brains. Those faint of palate needn't venture any further.
If one can get past what goes into making scrapple, he or she may discover
it tastes surprising good - like country-style pork sausage with a unique
shape and texture. It's a deck of cards sized slab, crispy on the outside,
soft inside and may be embellished with butter, maple syrup, applesauce,
ketchup or mashed in with its usual partner: a plateful of fried eggs.
Besides, modern day recipes make no use of questionable pork parts. (See
recipes below.)
Being born and raised in Pennsylvania, I was destined to have a piece of a
scrapple slapped across my breakfast plate. Being a good source of cheap
protein, it often made a morning appearance at our table. I didn't quite
relish it because of its gray color. That may have been the fault of my
mother, the cook. Properly prepared and fried, scrapple should be a tasty
looking golden brown.
Although edible raw, Scrapple is usually sliced and fried in butter or
lard. Served in a deep, placid pool of egg yolk and ketchup, it is a veritable
cholesterol meltdown. It is in arguably and unfathomably vile.
- Lynn
Copyright © 1998, Lynn Kerrigan. No portion of this article may be
reproduced for publication without express, written permission of the author.
Editor's Note: Lynn Kerrigan is one of those
behind-the-scene dynamos who, like the rest of us online, have bridged the gap
between food and computers. She publishes the Culinary Sleuth
newsletter for inquisitive cooks and has authored several guides on food
publications and home-based businesses. Lynn invites your ideas and comments.
Lynn's list of culinary newsletters,
magazines and journals.
Here are a few ways to enjoy this unique breakfast food using more
palate-friendly pig parts.