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Bill Swingle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: A bit of wisdom from Joe Galletti in 1998: So you're saying that using a bigger screw in a metal output shaft is going
to work?
Anyone using plastic gears in their TD ships? Just wondering.
You can ease up on your servos teeth by keeping your servo arm as short as
possible. The shorter the arm the less the leverage applied to the teeth
and case.
And lets not glaze over the fact that usually servo slop is the other name for sloppy surfaces..and one also usually has nothing to do with the other. A little play in the threaded end to the clevis' on both ends, a little flex in a weak linkage rod, some flex in the hinge line cloth and hinge line skin (yes it happens in the best of moldies), some clevis pin movement at the horn and arm it all stacks up, now add in run out ...a speck of movement at the horn connection is an 1/8" or more at the trailing edge. That TE slop the becomes the gear and case killer, because that surface is fluttering and snapping on pings and dives, you might not hear it but you can bet that your servo's gear trains can feel it...bruised and abused. The oh so popular drag saving top linkages absolutely mangle servos gears
fast and cook servo motor brushes. Weakened motors, let gears move more around
center, digi or not, in fact gear slop, linkage slop, long arms and weak motors,
can actually be accentuated by the new Digital resolution....Digi servos try
their darndest to keep the pot 'centered' (arm) so as it slops around the digi
amp is busy yelling at the gears to put the arm back and back and back and back
at really high speed...specially if you have 5 cells to juice the action.
Same for the beloved holding power of digi's...analog left the center
'soft' you had to (and could!) move the arm some before the analog amp would
yell, "THAT'S ENOUGH!" that squish acted as a cushion against teeth
wear.
So get more nuts about linkage, and worry less about specs.
Gordy
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- [RCSE] Servo slop fix advice?...why not avoid it by easing up ... GordySoar
