I think you will find that the industrial company that made the old K&B line
is the same company that produces Klass Cote.  All the components in the
paint are the same.  It smells like K&B, it goes on like K&B and it is as
good as K&B because that's what it was/is.

As for airbrushing etc.  If you are preparing a fuselage you do not need a
spray outfit.  You can mix KlassKote primer with mircroballoons to make a
thin paste like substance that can be BRUSHED  on to a bare fiberglass
fuselage.  When it cures it will look like hell but one you sand it you will
be left with a fuselage that has the pin holes filled.  You can then BRUSH
on another application of primer without the microballoons and sand that
back to a smooth ready to paint surface.

This is by far my favorite paint when I can paint outdoors.  It's smell does
not go well with indoor painting,however.  Needless to say, wear a proper
paint mask.  This stuff is dangerous to breathe as most paints are including
Krylon.

Ed
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Voss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Jeff Steifel'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "'RCSE'" <soaring@airage.com>
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 1:17 PM
Subject: RE: [RCSE] Durable Paint?


> Imron is supposed to be painted in a sealed room with more than normal
> exhaust fans, and a fresh air respirator.  It's REALLY bad stuff as Jeff
> points out.
>
> Funny isn't it, all the really good stuff will kill you.  Now we get
watered
> down stuff, like Krylon and have to consider it a 'good' paint.
>
> Go with Rustoleum or Klass Kote.  Me, I stocked up on K&B as soon as I
heard
> it was going off the market.  I've got just enough to last me until I'm
done
> with this hobby in my 80's or 90's. ;-)
>
> gv
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Steifel [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 1:12 PM
> To: George Voss
> Cc: 'RCSE'
> Subject: Re: [RCSE] Durable Paint?
>
> Worse than a carcinogen is that Imron is additive and will destroy your
> liver. It never purges from your system. I have heard about guys that
> died after spraying IMRON too many times without a respirator..
> Always spray with at least a basic volatile orgranic filter respirator
> or a pump. I happen to have both.. The pump style of respirator is also
> excellent for 2 part systems...
>
> I agree about Krylon being too soft... white nearly turns black by the
> end of a couple of flying sessions and can't be cleaned off.
>
> George Voss wrote:
>
> >Frankly, I hate Krylon.  It scratches easily and isn't very durable in my
> >opinion.
> >
> >For the best paint, use Imron.  The problem with it of course is that
it's
> a
> >carcinogen.  It's VERY bad stuff.  Next on the list would be the old K&B
if
> >you can find some.
> >
> >Klass Kote is the best paint currently available.  It's expensive and
> you'll
> >need at least an airbrush, but a small spray gun is better.
> >
> >As for surface prep, I sand or scrape the joint line and wet sand the
> entire
> >nose cone with 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper wet.  Use 3M fine line masking
> >tape.  It's a type of plastic and it stretches around corners fairly
well.
> >If you are shooting over white and you are using a dark canopy color, you
> >can shoot a dust coat, wait 15 minutes, shoot a flow coat and remove the
> >tape while the paint is still wet.  If not, use white primer over the
> canopy
> >area and then shoot the color.
> >
> >Let the painted nose cone sit in a heated area for 3-4 days untouched.
> Sand
> >the edges of the canopy so they blend in with the nose cone.  I put 3M
> >pinstripe tape around the paint line and then clear coat the entire nose
> >cone.
> >
> >I've got some photos of a finished nose cone if you want to see one.
> >
> >If you want a rattle can finish, use Rustoleum.  Be aware that you will
> need
> >to allow the paint to dry in a heated area for at least 3 days before
> >handling or you will get fingerprints.  Other than that, use the same
> method
> >as above except heat the spray can with hot tap water prior to spraying.
> It
> >will keep the paint from shooting blobs out of the nozzle.  Also, if
> maximum
> >finish points are desired, use a new can of paint.  Sometimes old, used
> cans
> >will shoot blobs out, even when heated.
> >
> > gv
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Ben Wilson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 7:33 AM
> >To: RCSE
> >Subject: Re: [RCSE] Durable Paint?
> >
> >Take a look at Phil Barnes' post on "Mantis Fuselage Finishing" here:
> >
> >http://forums.flyesl.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=44
> >
> >Photos and such as well...
> >
> >Sheldon-YNT uDesign wrote:
> >
> >
> >>I'm just finishing my new Soprano (finally) and would like some advice
> >>on what "brand" paint I can use to spray on as a "canopy" on the
> >>nosecone...Something that is reasonably durable, that won't mark-up
> >>too easily or readily scuff off. Anyone have any tips on either the
> >>paint to be used and surface prep? T'would be appreciated...
> >>
> >>TIA,
> >>
> >>Sheldon~YNT
> >>
> >>
> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> -- 
> Jeff Steifel
>
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