Not sure if this qualifies as "Great" but . . .

Mounting pushrod housings inside a tailboom or fuselage:

With a music wire pushrod, hold the housing in place using neodymium
magnets on the outside of the boom. Then hold the boom upright and
dribble thin CA down the housing (being careful not to get it inside
the housing of course), mist some kicker in there and you are done.
You can then remove the piano wire and put a CF rod in the housing if
you like. Works good on all fuses/booms. Some like to add small wraps
of thread or tape along the housing to give the CA more to bite into.
I find on good etched teflon housing this is not necessary, and it
impedes the flow of CA down the boom.

Picture here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/217372079/

Good magnet source (I bought the sample pack):
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/

Paul
www.casl.net

On 8/15/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Nice; how about the rest of us submitting their idea-jewels for something to
do. Could make for some interesting reading for a change.

Here's a couple:

On F3x fuses with opaque (typically carbon) canopies, I machine a slot which is
long enough to view one of those nifty battery LED's. The slot is offset to one
side such that just prior to launch I can glance at it and not only know PWR is
present, but where it's at.

I then Goop the LED display to the inside of the canopy. A side benefit is that
technically, even if the canopy departs the aircraft on launch/landing it
remains tethered, thus allowing you to score on that round.

The lead material supplied on most imported F3x aircraft, it seems the
prerequisite is to find the absolute cheapest material produced by mankind. The
awg is poor, and the insulation will depart on a hot day. One might consider
replacing it.

The piddly switches supplied with our systems are average at best, especially
for competition use. They have been known to fail. Simply replace the entire
switch assembly with a 2-pin high quality bullet-type connector used to supply
PWR to small electrics, and your servos will see higher voltage. Add to this
that typical bullet-type connectorship has cycle rates in the 100's, which
rivals the original slider switch.

Quoting Harley Michaelis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

> That's clever, Tom. Thanks for passing it on. I lament the absence of neat,
> creative ideas that used to be presented by many.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Thomas Koszuta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: <soaring@airage.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 7:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [RCSE] Another tip about securing a tube in an inaccessible
> area
>
>
> > I've done the same thing with heavy thread.
> >
> > Drill a hole of the fuse in both sides, where you want to attach the tube.
>
> > Using a long upholstery needle, go into one side and out the other,
> > reverse the needle and loop the thread around the tube as you pass the
> > needle back out.
> >
> > If you are sewing in a tube on both sides, you obviously need to loop both
>
> > of them before sealing the holes.
> >
> > Pull the tubing up tight to the fuse side and fill the hole with baking
> > soda.  Hit it with thin CA, then sand flush.
> >
> > (I didn't see/read the whole thread, so if someone already suggested this,
>
> > apologies.)
> >
> > Tom Koszuta
> > Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers
> > Buffalo, NY
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Cc: <soaring@airage.com>
> > Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 2:30 PM
> > Subject: [RCSE] Another tip about securing a tube in an inaccessible area
> >
> >
> >> This applies to a translucent fuselage, such as unpainted glass. If the
> >> tube to be installed is one nothing wants to stick to, decide on the
> >> spots where you want it attached and shrink a  sleeve of HS tubing at
> >> those spots on the tube.
> >>
> >> Position the tube. Just above it, drill small holes in the fuselage, such
>
> >> as 1/8", at the location of the HS pieces. Bend a common pin so it can be
>
> >> inserted into the hole to pull the tubing against the inside of the
> >> fuselage. Remove the needle from a small syringe. Put some quickepoxy in
> >> it. Let gravity help get it where wanted. Put a tiny spring clamp on the
> >> pin. Snip when the epoxy has cured.
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 6:57 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [RCSE] build tip
> >>
> >>
> >>> thx, glad i can help some.
> >>>
> >>> i'm always looking for a better way, can't believe i didn't of this a
> >>> long time ago.
> >>>
> >>> Dave Hauch
> >>> www.git-r-built.com
> >>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>> From: "Harley Michaelis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 7:40 PM
> >>> Subject: Re: [RCSE] build tip
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Good idea, Dave. Thanks for passing it on. ----- Original Message -----
>
> >>>> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>>> To: <soaring@airage.com>
> >>>> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 4:00 PM
> >>>> Subject: [RCSE] build tip
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> here's something i just came up when gluing pushrods in long
> >>>>> skinny fuses without making a mess.
> >>>
> >>
> >> RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe"
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> >
>
> RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe" and
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>


Simon Van Leeuwen
PnP Systems - The E-Harness of Choice
Radius Systems
Cogito Ergo Zoom

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