Tom, WOW! what a detailed reply. I have a feeling you have a larger
version, perhaps the 1.5 meter version. Mine is a one meter so instead of
running four servos, I'm using two but using spoilerons.
Last night I looked at the kits. I purchased four of them. Two were poly
designs using a highly undercambered section but the wings that came with
the straight wing version of the kit were not the same airfoil. When I
placed the poly version with the undercambered section on the wing saddle it
was a perfect fit. When I placed my straight wing (with dihedral) the
trailing edge was not sitting on the wing saddle but as stated, was about
1/2" above it.
I am waiting for Hobby People to reply to my post to them about this
problem.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Nakagawa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 2:59 AM
Subject: Colibri
> Ed,
> I have built a couple, mine did not have a 1/2"
> wing problem. Perhaps about 1/16" or so, but not that
> much !!! Something is rotten in Denmark.
> Check the placement of the anti-crush blocks in the
> wing where the bolts go. I suggest you can place the
> wing as flat as possible, then bolt the front and
> rear.
> Here are additional notes for the Colibri I fly, 5
> servos, four in the wing, and one for the elevator
> V-tail. Hope it helps.
> > The Colibri is set up as a polyhedral ship. I
> > enjoy making modifications to plans to get more
> > performance. If your question was "Should you buy
> it?"
> > The answer is YES!!! Gerald flies a "Microhawk" from
> > Slegers. As a micro HLG poly ship it flies well.
> > (Gerald is our resident "instructor/test pilot").
> > Sorry for the long winded instruction if you just
> > wanted a poly version.
> > I modified my Colibri, extensively. How much
> > building and flying experience do you have? If you
> > have any additional questions, let me know.
> > The wing was built flat, with about 1"
> dihedral...
> > one side flat, the other end lifted about 1". The
> > precut polyhedral breaks were epoxied over. Four
> HS-50
> > (Hitec) servos were installed in the wing for
> ailerons
> > and flaps. An aluminum arrow shaft was used to drill
> > out the foam for the wiring tunnels. The arrow shaft
> > has teeth filed into the end to help cutting. I just
> > chucked it up into my portable 3/8" hand drill. Used
> a
> > bit of eyeball alignment and prayers that I wouldn't
> > break through the wing skins.
> > The arrow shaft loads up, so you will need a long
> > stiff wire to poke out the foam. Put the tunnel in
> the
> > thick part of the wing. The ailerons are from the
> > precut polyhedral break out to about 1" from the
> > wingtip. The flaps are inboard to the edge of the 3"
> > wide fiberglass center reinforcing. Width per plans.
> > I extended the servo wiring, and just cut and
> > spliced the ends to make the servo leads long. They
> > are plugged into a Hitec Super Slim Rx. They extend
> > about 8" out of the inboard wing section.
> > The wings are finished with "Behr" brand
> waterbased
> > polyurathane. First two coats are light with hand
> > rubbing between. Third and fourth coats are heavier
> > with sanding (220 grit) between. Watch the balsa
> tips,
> > they get bumpy if you don't sand them well. I did
> not
> > use a sanding filler first. Use water based type if
> > you do, or do the epoxy coating method... very time
> > consuming and tricky.
> > Ailerons and flaps were cut using a yard stick
> and
> > #11 Exacto blades. The raw foam has not been faced,
> > but no big deal, don't fly in wet weather. You may
> > coat the foam with a mixture of 5 minute epoxy and
> > microballoons. Keep it light.
> > The aileron and flap pushrods were made from
> small
> > wire (1/32" ?), and Z bends. A wire with a Z bend is
> > soldered into a 1/4" piece of Sullivan cable brass
> > ends (the threaded kind). Two brass ends are screwed
> > into a 3/4" piece of yellow Nyrod tubing (the inner
> > rod). You will need pliers to get them to turn. This
> > acts as a turn buckle to adjust the length of the
> > pushrods for the ailerons and flaps. You will need
> to
> > remove the hinge tape to remove the Z bend from the
> > aileron / flap horns to adjust the length. I use
> > "Blenderm" medical tape for hinging. For setting up
> > the rod lengths just use masking tape or scotch type
> > tape for temporary alignment.
> > I did the V tail feathers. The plans are
> included.
> > I cut a slot, approximately 1/3 of the circumference
> > of the carbon pipe. Eyeballed a slight 1/32"
> negative
> > incidence in the cut, and went for it. I would
> suggest
> > a slot of approximately 3/16" at the rear of the
> pipe,
> > and a wider slot at the front, and a negative
> > incidence of about 1/16".
> > I did not go with the plastic clips provided,
> > trying to keep it light. The V tail was epoxied to
> the
> > carbon pipe. Light balsa, coated with the Behr
> > waterbased polyurathane with sanding. Again keep it
> > light, just waterproof it. Control for the tail is
> > elevator only, so a V wire was soldered on the end
> of
> > a flex cable. I used dental floss to tie the outer
> > sleeve to a light balsa stick to avoid flexing in
> the
> > elevator. CA the dental floss. The moment arm for
> the
> > tail is sufficient. I had to cut down the elevator
> > throw to make the plane more stable.
> > I cut as few holes in the top of the fuselage as
> > possible. The less cut out, the stronger it will be.
> I
> > did not reinforce any part of the fuselage beyond
> the
> > plans... plywood wing bolt pieces. I changed to SAE
> > nylon bolts. (Haven't broken any bolts yet !!!).
> > Similar sized. (6-32 I think).
> > I use a 70 mah battery. The deciding factor was
> how
> > far forward the battery would fit and allow the
> canopy
> > to be taped on. I had to install the Rx pushed into
> > the fuselage under the wing saddle area, glue the
> > servo rails into place in front of the Rx, and the
> > battery in front of the servo. A switch with
> charging
> > jack fit into the nose. All in all, it required no
> > further lead to achieve balance per plans.
> > But... the wing servos and the Cirrus 21BB
> elevator
> > servo needed to be plugged into the Rx and checked
> > before sliding the Rx into the fuselage and gluing
> in
> > the elevator servo rail. More "engineering" to make
> > the elevator servo arm to fit. God, I love the
> hobby.
> > I used a Dubro link connector installed upside down
> on
> > the control arm.
> > A short carbon fiber arrow shaft just behind the
> > center of balance, through the fuselage provides the
> > grip for the hand launch. All this and perhaps more
> > for a $109.99, 1 meter sailplane.
> > The resulting weight is 9.5 ounces (5.99 is the
> > advertised weight). Wing loading is about 6.5 oz /
> per
> > square foot at 9.5 ounces. A "stock" Colibri would
> > float...
> > I use a Futaba Super 8 transmitter and have the
> > ailerons and flaps coupled so they work as one
> > aileron, or for "butterfly" (CROW)the flaps are
> > independant of the ailerons. Butterfly glide path is
> > about 30 degrees, nice and smooth, no tendancy to
> > stall. I have had the Colibri tuck under during
> windy
> > steep landing, so I cut the glide slope to about 30
> > degrees.
> > Ballast is lead flashing (sheet lead) cut and
> > molded to fit outside under the fuselage. I don't
> like
> > ballast breaking through my fuselage, and if it is
> > windy, the additional drag doesn't matter.
> > I've flown the Colibri on the slope in 20 mph
> winds
> > with ballast, and without... very "twitchy" without
> > the ballast. Continous U shaped S turns sometimes 2
> > feet above the knee high grass. Zooming up at the
> > ends. The full span ailerons give nice quick precise
> > control. I've recovered from turbulence that would
> > have destroyed my F3B Eagle.
> > The Colibri will do inside and outside loops,
> > aileron rolls (more barrel like), fly inverted, spin
> > and recover. Crashes are not too bad, consider that
> > force = mass X acceleration. Keep the mass low...
> The
> > low mass also makes the roll response rate high. It
> is
> > laughingly funny to see the Colibri do a "High speed
> /
> > low altitude pass" down the slope. It whispers by at
> > about 20 mph. My CR "Contender" on the other hand...
> > I've had a couple of 4 minute handlaunch flights
> on
> > a calm day from a flat field. The Colibri signals
> lift
> > very well.
> > The disadvantage is the small wingspan. Slopes
> tend
> > to make the plane disappear into the sky. I think
> you
> > can paint colors on the wing once it is sealed. But
> > the "Behr" will not adhere to most other paints.
> Read
> > the cautions.
> > My last word of advice... "do buy it", whatever
> > your pleasure. I have a 2 meter "Velvia" from the
> same
> > manufacturer (Art Hobby). It too is a full house
> ship,
> > and performs great. It is not as "quick" as the
> > Colibri.
> > I plan to buy another Colibri as a backup for
> this
> > one. I tend to destroy my planes. But then If I
> wanted
> > to keep them looking nice I wouldn't fly them.
> > Enjoy; have a Prosperous New Year,
> > Aloha,
> > Tom Nakagawa
> >
> If this helps, great, otherwise, sorry for the space,
> Aloha,
> Tom Nakagawa
>
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