All the new NYX have the carbon aero shaft and steel pushrod ends for elevator. I would recommend that you replace the aluminum pushrod end with a steel end or use a spring steel clevis epoxy directly inside the carbon aero shaft. You can get to the bell crank without surgery but it is a bitch. That plastic clevis with the brass pin really hold tight. 1. Grab and spin the carbon pushrod to un-screw the clevis at the bell crank 2. Open the rudder clevis and fold back the rudder so you have access to the fin post. 3. Rotate the bell crank (stabs of) so the clevis is positioned at the slot in the fin post and pull the brass pin from the clevis. 4. Replace the aluminum pushrod end by heating the aluminum end with a soldering iron and pull out. 5. Epoxy in the steel clevis directly or shorten the carbon rod and add a piece of music wire and a wood wedge in the end of the pushrod and solder the clevis directly to the wire. Like the old days. 6. Install the pushrod. 7. That's it.
The NYX went through a few design changes on the F3B versions. If your carbon NYX weighs about 75oz you have a great carbon skinned F3J and overly strong AMA ship. The current F3B lay up gives a model that is 81oz RTF and real world F3B strength. FYI, There was a report on an elevator pushrod failure in Australia a few weeks ago. The model will be replaced at no charge. Even though David and the Australian gentleman are not my customers I want you all to know that the NYX manufacturer backs up his products. Call your dealer for the right model to fit your needs. Tom Copp COMPOSITE SPECIALTIES www.F3X.com ph/fax 949-645 7032 -----Original Message----- From: davidvels [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 3:32 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [RCSE] Nyx teething problem???? Greetings, I think all that have flown the Nyx will agree that it is a sweet flyer and would highly recommend it. However, I will say beware the elevator pushrod. I have (fortunately still) the F3B version with the carbon pushrod and what a fine pushrod it is. The problem lay with the aluminium threaded coupler at the belcrank (rear) end. Yup, aluminium !!! It's the same coupler supplied for the servo end. All you have to do is "bounce" the tail on the ground (and I mean bounce, not slap) and the weight of the pushrod, coupled with the weight of the tailplane supplying a compression load, bends the 2-56 size Alum. thread. The next launch provides enough load to further bend the thread to about 45 degrees to the pushrod, leaving you flying straight and level holding about half "up" elevator to land.... if your lucky!!!! The thread snapped off while I was undoing the clevis. Remedy; Replace the alum. coupler with a steel coupler, and/or support the weight of the push rod with a balsa block. To insert the balsa support block, I did it in two stages. First, glue a block about half the size required to the bottom of the fuse by using a 2-56 threaded wire into the balsa. When the glue has set, unscrew the wire and glue in the next block on top of the first. The reason for two blocks is there is not enough access to do it in one step. Now I can fly this magnificent aircraft with total confidence and I do highly recommend it to anyone interested. David Vels RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
