Robert - You've mostly heard what to do. I'd add a couple things -
Use Oatey plumbers steel filled epoxy to do it if the plane needs nose weight. This stuff can be found in the plumbing section of the hardware store. It looks like a steel colored tootsie roll. You cut off a bit, knead it to mix it up, and drop the ball into the nose cone. Coat the nose of the fuse with mold release and slam it home. If you get too much in it's hard to remove, so don't drop a bunch in all at once. If the plane doesn't need nose weight (Addiction or Compulsion?) use epoxy thickened with micro balloons. I like the Doc's idea of using silicone, but remember that many brands of silicone outgas acetic acid. This is corrosive and very bad to have around electronics. If you smell vinegar when you open the tube save it for something else. Release agent - try rubbing on wax, suntan lotion, or Yak Butter. The Yak Butter is by far the best mold release, but it's hard to come by. Maybe you could find a condom lubricated with Yak Butter. Ask the Doc, he knows these things. If it gets stuck even with mold release try temperature cycling it by leaving it in a hot car or attic and then putting it into the freezer or ice water. Get a big burly friend to grab the tail boom and you grab the nose cone. Twist and pull sharply. It will almost always come apart before you rip the fuselage in half. Has anybody besides me noticed that it's almost impossible to get a servo tray or tailpost to stay stuck in a glass fuselage, but even with release agent a nose cone will stick like stink on S**T? have fun - Rob Glover RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
