Re: [RCSE] Using cheap hair spray

[Keith Smith]

I've been using cheap hair spray for years. I especially like using it on 
all my paper pattern. It's best to do this after your patterns have been 
pasted down to your pattern material. The spraying of the patterns should be 
done before cutting your patterns. The spray really helps protects your 
patterns long after they have been pasted up. One another thing, be sure to 
write all your notes on your patterns before spraying them. I suggest using 
two to  three very light coats of spray making sure each coat has thoroughly 
dried before applying the following coat, and then lightly kiss your 
patterns with 600 sand paper.  This will assure you'll have great patterns 
than will last!

Krs
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2004 7:34 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Re: Question for Modelers Familiar w/Shellac


Jim -
I haven't used shellac to do this, but I have achieved some pretty light 
finishes.

I use hair spray for the initial coats. Get the cheapest large aerosal 
cans you can find. Fog a few sparse coats on, sanding very lightly with 
400 grit between coats. You only need to knock down the stickups. If you 
keep the initial coats light and let them dry well you won't hurt a foam 
wing, and the weight buildup will be minimal.

After you get the wood sealed with hairspray go ahead with the waterborn 
poly. I like to wipe it on with an old t shirt or a foam brush, keeping 
the coats thin and many.

happy trails - Roob Glover

As a woodworker I haven=B9t used but read about shellac as the 
sealer/under
coat for wood finishes.  Shellac is accepted as a good barrier against 
wate=
r
vapor, but not liquid water, and any finish will stick to it well.  So I
thought it might be a very good under or only coat for balsa tail parts on
HLG=B9s etc.  Don Stackhouse of DJ Aerotech describes the use of water 
born
(not a solvent in this case) polyurethane and that care must be taken to 
ge=
t
a very thin first & later coats.  One reason for that would be the fact 
tha=
t
wood so readily absorbs water then changing it=B9s dimensions due to 
swelling
of the wood fibers.  Don's main goal seems to be to limit weight added
though.

Have any of you tried shellac, which uses alcohol as its solvent?  I am
wondering if a 3 pound cut, for example, would penetrate less than a 1 
poun=
d
cut.  [Shellac is mixed as x pounds of flakes to 1 gallon of alcohol. 
N.B.
you must use de-waxed shellac if you intend to over coat it with any other
finish.]
--=20
Jim Holliman -- Tulsa, Oklahoma

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