I like to keep yellow and white (bright) on the L or R sides for my two blocks, because since most of the time is in the first two blocks, you want them standing out. Plus, they're easily distinguished.
For my top layer/bottom layer, I have blue/green. This is because these colours are the ones most similar to each other on the cube. This is handy for: Inverted blocks Orientation of the LSE Seeing multiple blocks as the same block Thinking about the last one, I try and see green/blue as the same colour, so that when I solve, I can start on a white or yellow block, with either blue or green at the bottom, and it will not feel strange. This allows me to start on any one of four blocks, then expand to a further two different ones. Of course, you need NMCMLL :) Ever tryed solving on colours you're not used to? baffling. Didn't used to be when i used petrus, but It felt 'wrong'. Also, solving on my cube with the weird colour scheme is odd, (orange is opposite white). ~Thom --- In [email protected], "Gilles Roux" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I'm 1 second faster when using my own colors (fluo orange/dark red, > fluo green/dark blue). > > The question is rarely discussed. It's surprising, because speedcubing > is based on anticipation, and color perception in fundamental. > > We'd need some expert in color discrimination by the human eye to tell > the perfect set of colors for speed-cubing. Black may be one of them. > > Gilles. > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/speedsolvingrubikscube/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
