Mine is all repaired and about 95% back together. I need to update my web
page but check it out
http://users.rcn.com/kcope/index1.html

Cheers
Ken Copeland
70 GT6+ KC78784 (Future restoration, (Maybe a GT8))
70 Spit FDU84919 (Body doner)
70 GT6+ KC81551 (Future Spit GT)
71 Porsche 911T (Ok so I like 70s)




----- Original Message -----


> Hi Nick,
> we finished our bonnet. It's in primer and, along with the other panels,
> waiting to be painted this spring as soon as the body work on the tub is
> completed. The bonnet on the GT6, like everything else on the car, was in
poor
> shape and needed a lot of repairs. The area around the wheel arches was
> totally rusted away, the nose section needed work, we also had some minor
> dents and rusted holes to deal with. We disassembled the inside wheel
arches
> and repaired them separately. In our case, compared to the floor, sills
and
> firewall repairs, the bonnet was not *that* big of a deal. It was very
time
> consuming, but manageable. So, if you've done sills etc. you're probably
going
> to be able to do this job.
>
>  I've never seen bonnet repair, or any body repair for that matter, done
> without the use of bondo. You've got to use some of it to smooth out
> imperfections, but the key is, the repair has to be done fairly accurate
in
> order not to slap too much bondo onto the panel, causing eventual cracking
in
> the repaired areas. Some people see the use of bondo as an easy solution
to
> just cover problem areas, fast and easy, but this doesn't work in the long
> run. You've got to the cut and weld. For this kind of repair, we're always
> using a gas welder and do butt welds. This makes a clean seam with no
> overlapping metal.
>
> If you're able to get a decent bonnet fairly cheap, go for it. However,
I've
> not seen such a lucky find in Canada. No sense in buying something that
may
> just be slightly better than the one you already have, as the repairs are
> probably the same.
>
> I've got lots of pictures. Let me know if you want me to send them to you.
> Cheers
> Liv
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Nick Moseley
>   To: Team.net Spit list ; Spit-Enthusiast list ; Nass
>   Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 1:53 AM
>   Subject: >>NASS Repair/rebuild bonnet sites?
>
>
>   I'd appreciate the collective wisdom and experience in how you've dealt
> with
>   a rusty bonnet.
>   Any pictures would be great !
>   I spent much of Fri nite waiting 2 hours for a guy to show up (he
didn't)
>   who was selling a "project" that had a great body and rust free bonnet.
> Upon
>   visiting again the next day, it didn't, well sort of. Inner fenders at
the
>   wheel arch had rotted through to the outers, but the metal of the
fenders
>   themselves including arches seemed okay. Previous bondo-ed repair at the
>   leading edge of one arch.
>
>   I've already got a bonnet with rusted inners, and rust through under the
>   side maker lamp. In my ignorance, I'm thinking that in order to fix the
>   inners and make them look right, I'll have to take the bonnets apart,
and
>   that if I have to do that, I might as well replace the side panels
(front
>   fenders) as well. If that has to be done on both bonnets then I might
just
>   as well work on the one I've already got.
>
>   So what to do?
>   Replace: cost wise a local vendor wants $750. for a good bonnet (I don't
>   know if that means needs "some" work, or no work).
>   Repair: parts from Spitbits price out at $550. Can, but plus shipping,
>   duties etc. (Fenders, inner and outer wells, headlamp mounting panels).
>   Skill wise, I've successfully fabricated a lower A post replacement, and
>   installed it along with a new rocker (sill) panel. (Sounds good, but
what
>   may have taken someone else a couple of days took me _months_).
>
>   My next step is to check out the "good" bonnet from the local vendor.
>   I'm asking for input as, before looking further, I'd like to know if
people
>   have had success with patch panels, or whether replacing the whole
pieces
>   with new and rebuilding the bonnet is the only way to make it look
"right".
>
>   Many thanks for all contributions
>
>   Nick Moseley

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