On Tue, Jul 27, 2021 at 8:02 AM Matt Grise via Sprinklerforum <
[email protected]> wrote:

> If you are exceeding 877gpm, the building is probably already gone - or
> some burst pipe is taking up all of the water anyway. At that point,
> torching your diesel motor is probably going to be a lesser concern. Best
> case scenario is that someone drove their car into a standpipe, and a
> busted 4" is draining the pipes down. Someone would probably find out about
> that quickly enough to shut off the motor (hopefully!)
>
> I am personally not a huge fan of suction control valves. That is just one
> more item that has the ability to shut off sprinkler flow to two entire
> apartment buildings. Unless the water company is worried about city-wide
> damage the water system, it seems like the greatest hazard/cost would be
> the buildings and the people in them. I would lean toward a more simple
> system.
>
> Matt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sprinklerforum <[email protected]> On
> Behalf Of Tom Duross via Sprinklerforum
> Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2021 6:45 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Cc: Tom Duross <[email protected]>
> Subject: RE: FP Suction Control Valve
>
> I should have rambled a little more..
>  750 gpm pump runs down to 20 PSI at 877 gpm (117%).  Worried should water
> demand exceed that and cavitate the main and loose cooling water to the
> engine.  Then we loose the pump house and the buildings.  Residential areas
> are compartmentized so not as much worried about 2-4 heads going off but
> concerned about parking garages, standpipes and hydrants.  Told local FD
> Capt. We would augment and ring hydrants per 291 and also placard stairways
> but wanted a fail safe to protect pump for down the road.  FD is onboard
> including their outside PE.
> TD
>
>
> Why are you wanting to install the suction control valve? Was it requested
> by the FD or water supplier?
>
> I would be concerned about removing the PRV without knowing all about what
> is downstream. It would be just your luck that some contractor got a
> variance to build the mains out of pool-noodles that burst at 110psi...
>
> Matt
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sprinklerforum <[email protected]> On
> Behalf Of Tom Duross via Sprinklerforum
> Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2021 6:28 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Cc: Tom Duross <[email protected]>
> Subject: FP Suction Control Valve
>
> Good morning Campers.  Looking for advice and comments.
>
> I have an existing diesel driven fire pump in a prefabricated pump house
> installed in 2012 serving 2 apartment buildings.
>
> I first tested this pump in 2017, had 13 hours on it, ran fine but we ran
> out of water at just about 100% capacity.
>
> Spent the day with the water department a few days later checking
> underground valves, flowing a few street main's hydrants, basically came to
> the conclusion that this is all we got.  Wrote up a report, suggested they
> hire an FPE to see if the pump's tested capacity meets requirements, how
> did this happen, what about the hydrants off this system, stuff like that.
> I think I stirred the sleepy caldron a little.
>
> Didn't hear back from the client until this spring.  Apparently they
> changed ITM contractors and the new one didn't pan out.  They had a balcony
> fire May 2021, gas grille, 13R system with no attic protection,
> non-completed attic separations and fire walls, etc.  Fortunately they had
> a response so quickly it never made it to penetrate the eaves and soffits
> and was extinguished between the 5th and 6th (top) floors.  Local FD must
> have had a field day with a Q20 of about 800 and closest city hydrant ¼
> mile away.  Waiting for incident report to review.
>
>
>
> So back to my query.  It's a xy&em pump house.  All welded sch40 and
> painted.  Not the greatest build as there's a 6" BFP vertically installed
> right off the incoming service with elbows turning it around and down to
> the floor to feed the pump.  Just a few spacers in the piping so no room
> for slipping in this device unless something gets removed or moved.  4-15
> of #20
> (2013) says between the pump discharge and check and I get that but also
> defers to the mfgr. for direction.  Looking at the various offerings most
> are a little vague on placement and even one says after the pump discharge
> valve.  Without major surgery, I have 2 spots to slip in this 20" long
> device.  I can remove the relief valve between the discharge increaser and
> pump check and put it there 'or' I can remove the tee feeding a 6" storz
> and check located between the discharge valve and the city bypass.  The
> former will allow me to test through the device but the latter will not.  I
> don't believe either of these appurtenances are necessary and I will
> explain (he's still rambling?  Jeepers..).  The engine is a small JD inline
> 4 running 3000 rpm, single ECM, max. speed is 3300.  Churn is 155 at 3025.
> I haven't physically done it but if I extrapolate to 3300 I get 170 psi.
> I'm below
> 175 so I think the PRV can go.  If I opt to remove the storz I can but
> testing this pump will have to be via the 3 hydrants it serves, in addition
> to the 2 buildings.  I honestly don't know why the engineer (small E) had a
> storz included as this house it atop a hill in the woods ½ mile away from a
> city hydrant and these buildings.
>
>
>
> OK, done rambling.  Loose the PRV or keep scratching my head?
>
>
>
> Let's go Red Sox!
>
>
>
> Tom Duross
>
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