Thanks for the feedback.
The rail bender I inherited from a past club member used roller bearings that
allow the foot of the rail under the roller bearings and the rail head is
pressed on the bearings. Unless I press down firmly on the rail while bending
the foot of the rail can lift and this causes the spiral problems. I am strongly
considering purchase of a rail bender that has slots for both the head and foot
of the rail in the rollers. Any recommendations? I see benders for $80 - almost
$500.00.
Gary Lane - editor of Emerald Empire GRS's Ballast & Manure (which refers both
to the hobby and the members who carry extra ballast and can shoot the manure
expertly)
Eugene, OR
http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy/
I will post more pictures one of these days. I need to learn to make a real web
site rather than use Angelfire's system.
Jim Curry wrote:
> Gary:
>
> I read your paragraph under the photo, it sounds like you're bending things
> correctly. You definitely want the rail laying flat before you slid it into
> the ties so check it on a flat surface first. I don't know what your
> homemade railbender looks like, if you have doubts about it's performance
> maybe you'll have to come up with something else. Assuming you're using a
> roller type bender, make sure it bears against the side of the head and base
> to keep things square as you're rolling. After mounting the rail in the
> ties, elevate the outside edge of the ties or tilt the roadbed as has been
> discussed recently. I wouldn't try to introduce superelevation in the
> rail/tie assembly.
>
> Reading your comment about the rail fitting easier in the LGB ties vs the
> Aristo, that indicates the base of the Aristo rail is a little narrower than
> the base of the LGB rail. If you've been building turns with Aristo rail in
> LGB ties you should check to see that they stay in gauge around the turns.
> Too much slop could result in undergauge track.
>
> Jim
>
