>Hi Richard,
Although Aster provide a copper bristled bottle brush
approx .312" dia. for cleaning their coal fired U1 232, then one assumes
this is ok to use?. (As yet my U1 remains an alcoholic!).
However when I collected my coal fired Britannia from John Barrett
he warned me against using metal bristled bottle brushes, as copper /steel
bristles on copper tubes, plus the abrasiveness of the coal/ash mix is
very damaging to the bore of the tube, and by additionally roughing up the
surface during each "cleaning" makes it even more prone to the subsequent
hot ash with sulphur residue build up clinging to the already roughened
bore. (I suggest sulphur residue is the main culprit for eating away the
tubes). Therefore Johns input is that anything metallic is a no-no.
Common Problem:-
The bore diameter of fire tubes in my coal fired engine are only
3/16" to 5/16" dia. (.187"- .312"). As yet I have not found a long "nylon"
bristle brush down to 3/16". dia. (The spiral shank of some brushes
offered is already approx 3/16, so no room for the bristles even if cut down).
Walt's potential gun shop supply sounds promising.
Meanwhile - My Method with no small "nylon" brushes available.
Do not add lubricants before any cleaning. Clean boiler in "dry" state.
After the engine has cooled down, I take a 1/8" dia bamboo cooking
skewer, (10-14") long, slit the end, place a postage stamp sized, thin,
rough surface, filing card into the slot, roll it around the tube, then
screw it through the tube, from the firebox end. This pushes the residue
forward. I do not pull the skewer back, but pass it one way only, but
repeat cleaning each tube 3-4 times. When all tubes cleaned from one end, I
replace the card with a new piece and clean all the tubes 3-4 times from
opposite smokebox end of tube
I have also used pieces of cloth, pushed through with the skewer,
but have almost blocked a tube using this method.
I do use a curved dental probe to scrape off the large loose
residue all around the inside of the smokebox, boiler front and around the
blower nozzle.
Then I use a house vacuum cleaner (car vacuum to weak) to remove
all loosened debris from front of smoke box and tubes, then repeat from the
firebox end. I also vacuum any dry residue from outside of engine.
I then use WD 40 to wash of any coal/ash residue from
inside/outside of firebox and under firegrate
around trailing truck etc. Also spray into firebox, down each firetube,
repeat from smokebox end. Also spray all outside motion, inner slip
eccentrics etc and wheel areas till no ash remains.
I then reclean the soaked tubes with the skewer method and fresh
card to remove any other loose washed residues. Allow engine to "drain" for
few minutes, then lubricate all motions with silicon light machine oil.
Typical time to clean and lube, 30 minutes.
As yet I have not tried a flexible extension Dremel tool brush.
Another option is to use the Model R/C plane 12" long control rod
wires with the 1/2" long threaded ends. Make up some 1/4 circular card
discs, clamp together with the 4.40? nuts, and pass through the tubes.
Hope this helps.
Question - What caused the destruction of your earlier coal fired
engine?. i.e. What should we not do?. Enquiring minds want to know!!!.
Note to Geoff:- Did you say you was using 30 year old water in
your engine with no problems, or
fresh water for 30 years?. Only the drivers lubricant being 30 years old?.
Regards,
Tony D.
>--
>==================================================
>Richard Finlayson
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
