No problem here on Outlook Express.

On the track radius problem, a more simple solution could be to check the
track, as well as the "Project" wheels.

Jun, I don't remember how you built your track, if it is hand-built or
commercial track sections, but the "Project" should certainly go round 6
foot radius curves.
A friend of mine has 7 foot radius and my Aster 141R had no problem, but he
had widened the track gauge slightly on the curves.
If you put the "Project" on the curve where it gets tight, you should be
able to see if the wheels still have sideways clearance. Can you move the
loco sideways ?
If so, then at the tight spot, can the coupling rods be moved sideways on
their pins ? If not, then that is easier to fix than the wheels. Remove each
coupling rod and see if they are straight. And if OK, they can be made
slightly thinner by filing to get more.clearance.

But I would look at the track gauge first.
Some commercial plastic track has holes in the centre of each tie for
screws, and if the screw is put in tightly, the tie ends will curl up and
reduce the gauge.

Hope this helps,
Peter Trounce


----- Original Message -----
From: "Art Walker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions


> I am not having any problem with Kitsukawa's messages on O/E, but I am not
> sure how to advise him!
> I have lent my copy of the Project book to a friend, but if memory serves,
> the coupling rods are one continuous bar connecting the crank pins of
axles
> 1,2,&3. ie they are rigid.
> I suggest Jun, that as a first go, you remove the con rods & see if that
> improves things.
> If it does, then the answer is a 'proper' jointed con rod, with a knuckle
> after the second axle position.This should allow the wheels to conform
> better to the track curvature.Usually done to allow vertical movement, of
> course, which is not necessary on an unsprung loco like the Project.
> But before doing that, I would check whether the holes in the con rods may
> just be too tight, & might benefit from a LITTLE reaming out. Check to see
> if the wheel sets have some freedom to move a little from side to side &
> that they can do so EASILY.
> If removing the con rods makes no difference, & if the wheel sets cannot
> move a little from side to side, then this means that there is
insufficient
> play between inside of wheel boss & outside of axle bearing.
> Now again, if memory serves right, a fault of the original Project design
> was that there was no means of pushing the axle bearings out & dropping
the
> wheel set. Basically what needs to be done is to thin the outside of axle
> bearings to give greater play. Difficult.
>
> 'De-flanging' the middle wheels was suggested. A dodge used frequently by
> the prototype BUT with a wider wheel tread, so not an easy solution.With
an
> unaltered wheel width there is a risk of the centre drivers falling into
the
> track on tight curves.
>
> I would also check that your wheel profile conforms to the GIMRA
standards.
> With a 40mm back to back these give a very 'sloppy' fit on the track (the
> Europeans use 41)& should allow curves to be taken easily even with a
rigid
> chassis. Perhaps you have made your wheel flanges too thick?- thus
removing
> the flexibility.
>
> Art Walker, Guildford, England.
>
>

> > > At 11:53 PM 6/25/02 -0800, you wrote:
> > > >G1MRA Project Loco can not run on my garden railway (track radius 6
> > > >feet). Does the loco require larger  track radius? Please let me know
> > > >what to do.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >     Jun Kitsukawa
> > > >          JAPAN


 

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