Trot, It's easy to rotate the eccentrics 180 degrees and move the Johnson bar pivot to the top where the notches are. Add a spacer to the spring to add drag. File the curved slot for the rod. It will stay in forward all day but can kick out of reverse from the steam pressure. Always tinkering Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "TrotFox Greyfoot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 5:37 PM Subject: Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
> Been there, adjusted that. Found out a _long_ time ago that Ruby's valves > are setup poorly. For one, they are set to outside admission when running > forward... shouldn't be a big deal except for... Two, the valves are > basicly leaky pistons when running outside admission. Due to the fact > that the rear face of the valve is outside the block and at atmospheric > presure while the front face is at whatever is coming from the throttle. > The wider you open her up the more presure is placed on the front face and > the worse your timing becomes. Haven't tryed bending the rod, turning > the threads always worked fine for me. > > In reverse (inside admission mode) this is not such a big issue since the > front face is open to the exhaust and should be very close to atmosphere > while all the presure from the throttle is applied to the middle of the > valve giving equal presure to the two (really four) inside faces (made up > of the groves in the piston valves.) > > I have given real consideration to changing my Ruby's piping such that the > forward hole would admit steam from the throttle and the rear hole would > exhaust up the stack. Change the Johnson bar to exit under the floor and > you'd be set. Currently I can't get the loco into forward while the > safeties are popping because the high presure leaking past the throttle > pushes the reverser valve (which is configured exactly the same as the > side valves) so hard that the linkage would rather flex than move the > valve forward. A tap with some tool on the rear of the valve is necissary > to put it in it's place. :( > > This is why I say lets go to slide-valves and real valve gear! There's > plenty of room on the rear crank for an eccentric link if you give the > main-rod some creative S-curving! Haven't checked the piston clearances > on this, but I suspect it'd be ok judging from the piston-rod wear I saw > when I changed out the first set of piston/cyl covers. :) > > Maybe one of these days I'll have some photos of my re-valved Ruby to show > off. };] > > Trot, the fox who's full of useless ideas... > > On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > Something to check; not sure that this is problem, but..... I find my Ruby > > valve events change with wear. Trying running it on air and apply gentle > > pressure to the valve rod in a forward direction. I have found that setting > > the valves in the static state doesn't always work as the pressure and slop > > don't work in our favor. My cure has been to gently, key word here, grab the > > rod with pliers and bend them toward the valve. Seems to work better than > > trying to thread it in, the rod gets sloppy on the threads out at the ends. > > Bob > > > /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, > ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a > >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." > >
