The vinegar/steel wool method is a recent favorite of mine--use just as Trot described. The "simulated" rust effect on painted surfaces is absolutely magnificent--especially since it isn't really "simulated" at all. It *is* rust.

Word of caution with the vinegar/steel wool solution. It reacts to different woods differently. Basswood turns a reddish grey, while balsa turns brown. Cedar turns anywhere from grey to black. This may have something to do with the strength of the solution as well as the type of wood, so test a small piece of the wood first to see how the solution will react. Note also that the reaction isn't an instantaneous thing. When treating wood, it will take a few minutes to change color. When using it on painted surfaces for a rust treatment, it will often take a few days to achieve the full results. This is largely dependent on the amount of moisture present in the air. I would imagine you'll get quicker results across the pond than what I get here in the arid Colorado climate.

Before "weathering" the wood, I usually run over it with a bit of 60 grit sandpaper to give it a bit of a texture. Some people use razor saws or broken hack-saw blades to do the same thing. I think the "grain" looks entirely too parallel then, so I just use the sandpaper. If I want to simulate a small split or something like that, I'll break out the X-acto knife and carve one in.

For the ends of the beam, I do use a razor saw. I spin it around to cut in the rings. Again, the depth and amount is up to you. An X-acto knife can then be used to carve in the cracks on the end.

Art, If you saw my mogul ("Phillips") at DH, then you saw examples of using the steel wool/vinegar solution for weathering both wood and painted surfaces.

Other examples exist on my web site: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kcstrong/trr/TRRHomepage.html
Click on "rolling stock" to look at a flat car whose deck was done with the vinegar solution. Under "motive power," look at TRR#3 to see examples of using the solution for weathering.


Later,

K

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