> Dear friends, > > I have to correct a few things about the installation of the pipes with > their flanges. The pipes have to be hung from a simple work horse with the > bottoms of the flanges NOT touching the bottom of the holes. Dig the holes > only about 2" deeper than the frost line requires. When the pipes are > positioned exactly in their correct spots they should be shimmed on their > sides so as to be vertical and they should raised or lowered so that their > top flanges are all leveled one with the other. Use the water level to do > this. Then pour some 3 to 1 concrete in the holes, just enough to fill in > the space between the bottom of the holes and the bottom's of the flanges. > Then immediately fill in the space between the pipe legs and the sides of > the holes with the dirt previously removed, but DON'T tamp the fill-in dirt > because doing so will cause the upper part of the vertical legs to move out > of vertical. With a garden hose run a lot of water in the filled in dirt. > This will cause it to settle and become a more solid sideways support for > the legs. Once finished doing this to the legs the track bed can be > fastened to the upper flanges. This will tie everything together and help > stop horizontal movement of the setup. The space around the legs, where the > dirt has settled, can now be filled in again so as to be level with the > ground around it. > > Arthur--Mexico City > > From: "Arthur S.Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <sslivesteam@colegroup.com> > Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 8:05 PM > Subject: Re: depth of post footings and frost,was Re: > sslivesteam-Digest -Number 1318 > > > > Dear friends-----and all those with misconceptions of how to control the > > frost heaving of your vertical track bed supports. I beat it by moving to > > Mexico city. No freezing here. But you northerners can correct the > heaving > > by not letting the vertical track supports move vertically by making your > > post holes for the supports a little deeper, 3", than the frost line. The > > post hole must be large enough in diameter to accommodate a pipe floor > > flange that has to be screwed to the lower end of the vertical support > pipe. > > 2½ or 3" pipe should be used. Once the pipe, with its lower flange > > installed, is inserted in the hole the remainder of the hole should be > > filled with the same dirt and tamped down around the vertical pipe. It > > would be recommendable to thread the other end of he pipe for another > flange > > as this top flange can be used to secure the track bed. The pipes should > be > > very well placed in a vertical position when tamping the dirt in. A water > > hose level made of 1/2" or 5'8" I.D. transparent plastic hose should cut > > that's about 20 feet long to level the tops of the vertical pipe supports. > > The dirt around the vertical pipe supports might heave, move up and down, > > but those lower flanges will never move vertically. > > > > Arthur---Mexico City > > >
