Thanks all - really helpful and interesting information.
Also... could you please comment on:
* How far your observations were from the closest gateway(s)
* Whether you consider your cell Starlink virgin territory or close to
subscriber saturation (https://www.starlink.com/map might help
determine that - if it's light blue, it's likely the former, if it's
"waitlist" blue but surrounded by light blue areas, or rural and
close to a "waitlist blue" area, it's likely to be the latter.
On 17/02/2023 2:24 pm, Bruce Perens wrote:
On Thu, Feb 16, 2023 at 3:08 PM Ulrich Speidel via Starlink
<[email protected]> wrote:
* Small inverters usually come with cigarette lighter cables,
and cigarette lighter sockets are typically fused with 8 or 10
A fuses. That puts maximum safe power outputs in the 96W to
130-something W range depending on battery voltage.
When a larger inverter failed upon installation, I ran Starlink with
the router and rectangular dish for about 2 months, unattended, on a
Harbor Freight 250W inverter and 8 GC2 batteries.
Unfortunately this sort of crashed and burned after the first snow.
The battery bank was 8 GC2 in series, and there was a 48V-12V
converter before the Harbor Freight inverter. I had 4 solar panels
flat on top of a freight container, simply so that they would not be
visiblle and the site would be low profile. These got covered by snow,
and I will tilt them up before the next snow season. The batteries
then got to a low voltage, and the lovely Victron battery protector
failed because I wired it backwards. Then I had a heart attack and
could not visit the site for 3 months. The battery bank discharged
entirely. I finally arrived to find ice at the top of 4 cells in the
battery bank. Fortunately it was only at the top, and I was able to
recover all of the batteries, rewire the protector, and put the site
back on the air.
At that point, I switched to DishyPowa, connected via a hacked
Starlink Ethernet Adapter. This allows you to delete the inverter and
the Starlink router, and run the dish directly off of 48-52V DC. You
still need a router, because Starliink only provides one IPV4 DHCP
address to the Dishy, and you need to do the usual NAT thing on your
local net. But routers that run on 12V directly are easy to find.
Thanks
Bruce
--
****************************************************************
Dr. Ulrich Speidel
School of Computer Science
Room 303S.594 (City Campus)
The University of Auckland
[email protected]
http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~ulrich/
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