Hello,

I have many questions about sundial shadows.  Hope this is interesting stuff. 
General issue is how to design the sundial so that it is most easy to read. 
This involves some engineering, and also some human perception issues.  These
are posed as open ended questions - I don't really expect answers - but many
thanks in advance for your thoughts and comments.

1) How does one size a gnomen so that the shadow will be as sharp as possible?
This obviuosly has to do with distance from dial surface, solar disk size,
etc.  But also may have to do with the eye's ability to see contrast.  Given
an optimum design, one could scale a dial and still have (relatively) the same
sharpness, yet the eye would need to percieve the contrast at the edge of the
shadow over a longer distance.   Is there an optimal ratio for style tip size
to distance from dial face?

2) The contrast of a shadow depends on the difference in lighting in the sunny
part from the shadow part - how bright is the shadow?  It is probably
illuminated at the intensity of scattered light in the atmosphere - what is
this?   Does this vary significantly with sunrise - noon - sunset?

3) What "color" is a shadow?  This is also probably a different spectrum of
light from direct sun (different black body color temperature) - ie a
different peak color.  Since metals and plastics reflect color differently
(one reflects its own color, the other tends to reflect the color of the
incident light - I forgot which is which) - does the material on the face of
the dial affect the percieved contrast?

4) Will the eye percive a point shadow (sharp point style) or a line shadow
(like from a wall) better?  For point shadows - how big a dark area (not
counting the edge of the shadow were the solar disk size causes a gradient) is
best?  The eye tends to apply a "DOG" filter (if I remember correctly) =
"Difference of Gaussian" (looks like a Mexican Top Hat) filter to images when
sensing contrast.  Thus the gradiaent at the edge of a shadow, as well as the
width of the dark center of the shadow must matter at some size and scale.

5)  Is it possible to have too bright a dial surface - making it difficult to
look at the shadow?

6) Is a diffuse or specular surface best?

7) There are three aspects to reading the shadow - that is the shadow, the
dial face, and the markings.  What is the best marking color / material / etc?
 Should the markings be raised or engraved or flush?

8) The scattered light from the atmosphere tends to e polarized - would one be
better able to see a shadow wearing polarized sun glasses?

9) Can you see the shadow move - can you sense its motion?  How big a dial
would you need (how long a shadow) to get a shadow speed that the eye could
sense?  Would a surface with colored inclusions (texture) help to perceive the
motion?   What size of texture would work best?  How slow must something move
before the human eye fails to percieve its motion?

10) All of these issues will be influenced by the angle of incidence of the
shadow.  Perhaps also by the extremes of the day.

11) Inverse problem - same issues but using a point of light rather than a
shadow to mark the time.

Thanks for your comments!
 - Ben Hoffmann, Minneapolis, MN USA

Reply via email to