Sam - My first project car was an 82 Jetta non-turbo (Biodiesel and SRO) My next and and current is a 77 Mercedes 300d non-turbo (biodiesel) The next one under mechanical resto. right now is another Jetta 84 automatic turbodiesel - tough to find. (Biodiesel and SRO).
Not knowing where you are or anything about condition of the SD, but if body is good and seems to run ok I would be checking out the title, liens, compression, glow plugs, transmission, differential etc. VERY CLOSELY before buying - a good SD goes for at least $2000-3000 US or more, usually, even a high-miler, even a private sale - so, what's wrong with it? If it is rusty, it might be rusty around the front spring support - dangerous and very expensive to fix properly and possible impending failure from corrosion of other components. Was the timing chain ever done, or at least checked? What's the service history? Lots of oil changes? City or highway driving? They all make a big difference on whether the Merc is worth owning. An engine failure, transmision failure or rear diff. failure on these cars can all cost more than the car is worth. Very nice cars, but buyer beware. The SD is bigger and heavier model of the series, and strains everything just that much more. I'd say go with the Jetta and take the extra 20 MPG, cheaper parts, and less suspicion of "why so cheap"? I'd also recommend you get a turbo VW, not the non-turbo. Unless you really need or want a "status" sort of car, expensive gee-whiz toys, or need a long-distance highway tourer, go with the VW. The most expensive part to fix and to check out on those is the head gasket (several hundred to fix at a shop). Common failure. Otherwise check compression (easy way is to pull oil filler cap at idle and see how much smoke (blow-by) there is. Battery, compression, glow plugs - all critical if the thing is going to start next winter!! Be warned - diesels, they all start and run nice when they've been warmed up before you get there to view, on a warm spring day. Insist on a cold start and verify it by checking for warmth (lift the hood and see if any heat coming off the engine or upper rad hose) - before it is started up, on your arrival. No problem with biodiesel in a turbo engine. Take your pick on biodiesel or SRO (SVO) - there are advantages and disadvantages to each. Depends on your priorities. Best Ed B. > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Reply-To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com > Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 01:16:20 -0000 > To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [biofuel] biodiesel car > > Hi all, > > If you had a choice and were buying a car in which to do this > biodiesel thing and the choice was: > 1. A 80's model VW Jetta diesel w/5 speed > 2. A 80's model Mercedes 300SD Turbo diesel w/auto > And they were the same price... > > Which one would you go for? > Parts are cheaper for the V-Dubs of course. > Mercs have a tendency to last forever, so I'm told. The one I got my > eye on is a daily driver for $1000. > Has anyone here doing (or heard of doing) biodiesel in a turbo car? > Any drawbacks with that? > What would be better in your opinion, biodiesel or SVO (straight > vegetable oil) > I may be close to trying this stuff out. Thinking about it real hard > anyway! :-) > Sam Dabbs > > > Biofuel at Journey to Forever: > http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html > To unsubscribe, send an email to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
