recorded 130F on a sumer day, after 4 hours, inside those translucent
jugs the oil comes in!
This will accelerate and enhance the gravity settling of contaminants
out of the oil (normally just done at room temperature in an
undisturbed, unheated jug or drum)
Also, for prefiltering, if you settle the oil 2-3 weeks, undisturbed at
room temperature, it will become very clean and most free water will
settle out. I was once told by a person in the oil pressing industry
that the new cold pressed oil (that emerges from the press like mud)
will settle out to as low as 5 microns after several weeks of settling.
There is a real difference between oil that has settled a few days, and
that which has settled a few weeks! After a few days, now talking about
WVO, you will see a lot of stuff has dropped out - but the oil may well
remain cloudy. This may be mistaken for water (and some of it may be),
but it is mostly very fine particles still in suspension (remember that
you can only see particles down to about 50 microns with the naked
eye!). Let it settle another week or two, and it will usually be
totally clear!
My method is to do this right in the jugs, then insert our Wand (which
has a cleanable 70 micron strainer, just to ensure that nothing large
gets picked up) into the jug, a few inches off the bottom. Then into
the tank it goes, and the Vormaxx onboard fuel processor does the rest.
The prefilter stage on this heated filter is a centrifugal (vortex)
action. Water and contaminants swirl to the outside, then hit a vortex
breaker and drop out, where they can be drained off easily. At low flow
rates, it would function as a traditional sediment bowl, at higher
rates, the centrifugal action. Either works. Up to 97% of contaminants
are removed this way *before* they reach the final filter. Then a Racor
or Fleetguard, or Donaldson large capacity water separator type filter
with the ability to remove both free and emulsified water is the final
filter. The filter is heated by coolant, and the Racor has a Lexan bowl
with a 12VDC heater option to provide further heat to the final filter
if needed.
By going to this method a few years ago, the process of collecting and
preparing WVO for use was greatly simplified and we have encountered no
problems. Filter life is in the thousands of miles in most cases, with
just the gravity-settled approach.
I do have customers who use finer prefilters - anywhere from 10 down to
1 micron, and take it down very fine before it goes in the tank.
They've done cross country trips, and gone for up to a year without a
filter change on the Vormaxx, just cleaning out the prefilter regularly
(once a week, say, or every time you check the engine oil, drain off
300ml or so into a Ziplock back and discard)
I and many others have found this to be effective, and much easier than
the "Boil and Bag" routine of heating, boiling, cooling, filtering,
etc, in the shop, and it uses less energy (well, less energy for the
boiling, and less of my time and energy too!)
Regards,
Edward Beggs B.E.S. M.Sc.
Neoteric Biofuels Inc.
http://www.biofuels.ca
On Dec 3, 2004, at 3:40 AM, Legal Eagle wrote:
G'day Alex;
----- Original Message ----- From: "alex burton"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 4:27 AM
Subject: [Biofuel] Pre heating with Solar heating ?
Hello
Has anyone used solar pre heating to raise the temp of the oil in
any way ?
In california they have solar powered water heaters, so why not ?
(I may be waisting my time but i dont want to use only LPG gas to
preheat my oil)
I live in sunny Australia
You should no probs pre-heating with solar, thing is to devise a
method.
Any info or advice. I am very happy to listen to. if this is a silly
concept please tell me Know.
Far from a "silly" concept, it is a good one, however the process may
be time consuming unless you plan on setting up PV panels and using
the electrical output to power an element of some kind, as in an
immersion heater ect...
I use an immersion heater and 115V electrical, but Oz is already
hooked up to 240V continuous so use that or a solar variant of the
same.
Another potential method would be to pre-heat using the glycol
by-product as many do, however they will be in a better position to
give you the details and hazzards than I.
I must tell you i have only made one full scale batch of BD and i
have so much to lern
The learning curve is half the fun, and very empowering, as you can
see the progress you are making and it is something atainable. Anyone
suffering from inaptitude should get into biodiesel production as
therapy :-)
I have only just sold my old petrol (GAS) ute and yet
to buy a Diesel. the exelent advice i have recived stopped me from
buying the only diesel that was in my price range. But in the new
year
i hope to be able to buy a diesel for now i just want to set up for
production of a average of 100Litres a week(thats more than i need
but i want to provide it to friends as well and convert them)
Wisdom is the better part of valour, and from what I understand the
Aussie government wants it's share of taxes on BD, so either look into
that or be sure they are really friends, ha ! Here off-road fuel is
not subject to fuel taxes, but it IS subject to sales tax, and the
grey area is found in bartering; I give you this and you give me that
in exchange...
Luc
Regards Alex.B
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