Mike

The Toyota Diesel engines into the US Toyota pickups, Hilux, 4Runner, Surf
and many more is an easy transplant from 4 cylinder petrol/gas to 4 cylinder
diesel as you say.

For Toyota the Bellhousing needs to be changed along side the engine change
as the starter is on the opposite side in the diesel. The original gear box
can be used even the transfer box if a 4 wheel drive is being converted.
Other than this the rest of the swap from 4 cylinder Toyota petrol/gas to
the 4 cylinder Toyota diesel turbo or NA is a very straight forward swap
needing the radiator/coolant pipes changed, the different air filter
assembly if possible and the wiring in of a double timer for the glow plugs.

When starting most diesel engines the light/indicator for the glow plugs
goes off before the glow plugs turn off. The glow plugs are turned off or
pulsed with a timer. The indicator light is just controlled by a simple
timer that says the glow plugs/combustion chamber should be hot enough when
the indicator lamp goes off. The glow plugs should stay on for several
seconds, 15 to 20, longer even with the key in the start position. Thus the
double timer. The other way is a single timer and the oil pressure turning
the glow plugs off, this however means that if the engine is being bleed
then the oil pressure will come up and the glow plugs will not work till the
oil pressure drops, especially long times in cold weather. The better is to
use a back EMF from the Alternator to shut the relay for the glow plugs off.
Many conversions forget to take into account that the glow plug light goes
off but the plugs stay with power on. The indicator is just that, for
starting the engine. GM in many cases uses a pulse system even when the
engine is running the plugs maybe pulsing for several minutes after the
initial cold start.

One of the bigger problems in conversions is not fitting the engine but the
rear axle ratios. It would seem that with the Toyota diesel engines
transplanted into the petrol/gas driven Toyota 4 cylinder vehicles the
differential ratios are close enough to not need any changes.

Some of the Ford sedans due to the high revving ability of the petrol/gas
engine to convert to diesel the differential ratios may need to be changed.
Most Toyota diesels will pull to 4,200 rpm a far cry from the 5,000 to 7,000
plus of some of the Ford petrol/gas engines, hence to convert some Fords,
other than trucks/pickups 1/2 to1 ton the ratios need changing to give the
longer legs for long trips. The 4,2L 1HZ fits real sweetly into the Fords to
replace the 351 CI gas engine. The same 1HZ 4.2 will fit easily to exchange
into GM to replace the 308 and above. Hill climbing with heavy loads
requires the addition of a turbo on the above trucks but is not so hard to
fit.

Another option with differential ratios is to change tyre and rim sizes.
Some 15 inch rims changed to 16 inch rims and equivalent larger tyre
diameters give the same as changing differential ratios but much cheaper and
easier to make the modification. Suppose a GM is on 15 inch rims and a
diesel has been fitted with lower rev range than the original. By changing
the tyre and rim sizes to larger diameter the top speed or long legs are
still there for long distance cruising. This change is also used as an
option to give longer legs to a car travelling long distances to keep the
revs down and to improve fuel economy. A "City" vehicle needs the smaller
wheels with more acceleration than does a long distance touring vehicle. Not
many manufacturers make the ideal for long distance and city driving in the
same vehicle. For this reason some people keep two sets of tyres and rims,
one for city driving and for holidays and long distance a change to the
larger diameter.

The advantages of a turbo are many so are the disadvantages. Can discuss.
The turbo makes for a reasonable increase in torque and is an ideal
accomplice to add a small jet to allow water to be drawn into the suction
side, atomized by the blower and thus increase the torque even more. Turbos
generally can be a pain if not taken care of. For longevity the better is
forced oil lubricated and water cooled. Garrett do nice units as do many
other companies as after market fits. The room under the hood is your only
limiting factor. The VM Jeep engine is a danger if the air filter gets
clogged to any degree at all as the VM turbo will drag the oil through the
turbo seals and engine PCV system and destroy the engine. Melts pistons at
worst.

Doug




> You can (or could) buy low mileage Toyota diesel engines and
> transmissions from a guy on Ebay working out of Florida.  Toyota diesels
> are pretty bullet-proof and I've used them in Africa - they're great.
> They are a bolt-in for almost US Toyota products.
>
> -Mike
>
> Jonathan Dunlap wrote:
>
> > Thank you!
> > I can use this information.
> > Jonathan
> >
> > */lres1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/* wrote:
> >
> >     The Jeep Diesel engine was the Italian VM engine, the same that
> >     was fitted
> >     to some European cars. VM was connected with Jeep/Chrysler but was
> >     taken
> >     over by GM causing the parts prices for the VM through Jeep to go
> >     through
> >     the roof.
> >
> >     The Chev Blazer Diesels had 6 volts for the glow plugs, 12 volts
> >     for running
> >     and 24 volts for starting in the earlier stages. The control
> >     systems for
> >     this very basic GM engine was over the top as was a modified truck
> >     engine to
> >     fit the smaller 4 wheel drive. The injector pump was a bit of a
> >     problem in
> >     many areas including the glass ball that fitted to the air bleed
back
> >     system. Very troublesome removing burnt glow plugs if the engine
> >     had been
> >     jump started incorrectly. Very noisy when running.
> >
> >     The Fords should not be too much of a problem as in many parts of
> >     the world
> >     Ford is connected to Mazda and thus the smaller Mazda Diesel
engines.
> >
> >     Toyota Diesel engines are the best option we have here. The are
easily
> >     fitted to Jeeps, Fords and others onto the original transmissions.
> >
> >     Doug
> >
> >
> >
> >     > The smallest one is the Jeep Liberty - fairly heavy and still no
> >     stick
> >     > shift model.
> >     > The last US build diesels were the ill-fated 5.7 liter
> >     conversions of
> >     > the 70's. Miserable cars.
> >     >
> >     > The Dodge Cummins diesel trucks are fine, as are most of the
> >     Fords. The
> >     > GM;s 6.2's were weak - the later models better.
> >     > there were many models available 20 years or so ago - Isuzu,
Toyota,
> >     > Mazda, MB and VW. ONly VW and still offer diesel cars.
> >     >
> >     > bob allen wrote:
> >     >
> >     > >about the only american made diesels are trucks with engine
> >     displacements
> >     of about 7 liters. No
> >     > >small trucks and no sedans.
> >     > >
> >     > >
> >     > >Jan Warnqvist wrote:
> >     > >
> >     > >
> >     > >>Hello everybody in the Americas! I have one question for you
> >     concerning
> >     > >>BD and the cars consuming it. It seems as if you all are
prefering
> >     > >>European cars for fueling BD instead of American diesels. Is
> >     that true,
> >     > >>and in this case why? Arn´t GM:s diesels good for BD ?
> >     > >>
> >     > >>Jan Warnqvist
> >     > >>
> >     > >>
> >     >
> >
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