Charles,
I think an "oil" burner can tolerate impurities. The problem is that
you may have to make some minor modifications. The problem I had, and, I
think, you as well, was that we were burning inferior fuel w/o any
modifications to the burner. I think that glycerides in the fuel (from
incomplete reactions) at low temp and pressure can coke up nozzles and
electrodes.
I have a Beckett AF burner ---> baseboard hot water for heat + the
furnace (boiler) has a coil that supplies domestic hot water. I think any
burner can burn BD. I don't think it has to be the high quality BD I use in
my car, but lower quality fuel may require some adjustments..
I put a T in my fuel line, as you have said you plan to do .... be sure
to use flare fittings rather than compression fittings. I've gone to all
brass, heavy duty valves ... again flare fittings. I have a cartridge fuel
filter in both the line from the main tank as well as in the line from the
"experimental" (now 100% BD) tank.
***I ran about 1 foot (~30cm) of the copper tube from the BD tank up the
pipe that carries hot water from the boiler to the circulator to heat my
house. The copper tubing then runs down the same pipe back to the T in the
line. I wrapped the tubing and pipe w. insulation. The water inside the pipe
is 160 - 180F (71 - 82C). As long as my heat is on the BD is preheated
passively.
I put a pressure gauge on my pump and increased pressure from 100psi to
125psi. I changed from a
1.0 gallon/hour nozzle to a 0.75 gph nozzle.
Make sure that air cannot get in the furnace/boiler through any
openings .... use furnace cement if necessary. Ex: I could see light (from
the flame) coming out bolt holes in my burner gasket .... sealed them shut.
Don't seal inspection port .... you'll want to check flame and for smoke.
I also had to decrease air flow. On my burner there are two adjustment
bands. One is closed for 100% BD while the other is partly open.
I installed a Webster Bio Pump (viton seals --> BD compatible). The
pump on the burner worked fine all winter, but I had concerns about
biodiesel causing the seal to eventually leak. Bio-Pump ~ $75 US; very
easy to install on my burner ("drop in").
I recently made a batch of BD that failed the methanol quality test;
about 75L (20 gal). It burned fine in the boiler with the above
modifications (w/o the pre-heating).
I have been experimenting with adding Free Fatty Acids (FFAs) to the BD
in my heating system. They seemed to burn fine (~5% FFAs : 95%BD) until the
warm weather came, my heating system was off, and the mix was no longer
being pre-heated. I got some coking.
My point is that for heating purposes you probably don't need high
quality BD. You probably will have to make some minor adjustments to your
system ... pre-heating the fuel and/or changing pressure/nozzles/air flow.
Knowing how to test the quality of your fuel is still valuable. The
methanol test is quick and cheap. That, along w. some tweaking of the
process (increase temp a few degrees/ time by 15 minutes) you will improve
fuel quality. It is possible to make BD that passes the quality test w/o any
serious inconvenience or increased cost. In the mean time less than perfect
fuel should work fine in the boiler.
Best of luck,
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <biofuel@sustainablelists.org>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!
> Hi Tom
>
> As a further aside- I am, of course, trying to make the best
> biodiesel i can, but what % of impurities (ie methanol test failure)
> did you burner put up with? I'm down to 10% with my 1l trial runs now
> as I tweak the process for my creamy canola.
>
> Charles
>
>
> On 22/06/2006, at 12:20 AM, Thomas Kelly wrote:
>
>> Charles,
>> I did as you plan to .... put a T in the line so I could have
>> a small
>> "experimental" tank, and gradually increased BD conc. Had no
>> problem until
>> about 50 - 60% BD. Some minor adjustments to the burner at that point.
>> An interesting development: The shut off valves in the line
>> apparently
>> have a rubber or plastic seal. The valve from the large tank (30%
>> biodiesel
>> : 70% petro) is fine. The valve from the smaller tank (100% BD) is
>> dripping.
>> .... gives me something to do this morning.
>> Tom
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Charles List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: <biofuel@sustainablelists.org>
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:25 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!
>>
>>
>>> Hi Tom
>>>
>>> Many thanks for the advice. I will let you know how I get on.
>>> I intend (hopefully) to run B100 in my boiler. I was planning to ask
>>> about the adjustments I will have to make! I have set up a T-piece on
>>> the fuel feed so I can try small amount of different % to see how
>>> I go.
>>>
>>> Best
>>>
>>> Charles
>>>
>>> On 21/06/2006, at 2:30 AM, Thomas Kelly wrote:
>>>
>>>> Charles,
>>>> Then creamy canola it is.
>>>>
>>>> It sounds as though you are getting a reaction .....
>>>> methanol test tells us it is not complete.
>>>>
>>>> Could be the KOH
>>>>
>>>> I have gotten new caustic that was not the concentration the
>>>> seller (or
>>>> the bag) said it was.
>>>>
>>>> Do you have (or can you get) a sample of KOH (or NaOH) of
>>>> known purity?
>>>> You could titrate a sample of the WVO with the caustic of
>>>> known purity
>>>> and then titrate the same oil w. the new, questionable KOH. A
>>>> comparison of
>>>> the titrations on the same WVO would indicate its purity.
>>>> I would do it like this: (corrections appreciated)
>>>> 1. Divide the titration for the known by the titration for the
>>>> unknown. (Titration is inverse to concentration)
>>>> 2. Multiply result by the conc. of the known.
>>>>
>>>> Ex: Known KOH is 85% and titration = 3.0 g/L
>>>> "Unknown" KOH titrates 3.6 g/L
>>>>
>>>> 1. 3.0 divided by 3.6 = 0.83333
>>>> 2. 0.83333 X .85 = .708
>>>> "Unknown" = 70.8% KOH
>>>>
>>>> **** If the Known caustic is NaOH, then multiply its titration by
>>>> 1.4 prior
>>>> to step 1.
>>>>
>>>> You wrote:
>>>> "Bottom layer (20%) is solid and dark redy- brown (glycerine I
>>>> hope) then
>>>> thin layer (5%) what looks like
>>>> unreacted oil, then rest is dark brown "bio". It passes the wash
>>>> test and
>>>> the third wash leaves clean water underneath and brown "bio" on
>>>> top. The
>>>> "bio" also leaves about 20-30% residue in the methanol test."
>>>>
>>>> Bottom layer: glycerine, I think
>>>> Top layer: biodiesel + unreacted glycerides (that
>>>> precipitate out in the methanol test)
>>>> Middle layer: soaps? 3.6g KOH/L WVO titration
>>>> suggests you will get some soap, but I think
>>>> 5% is a bit high ... especially if you are not
>>>> using enough caustic.
>>>> Could there be water in the oil (does it sizzle/pop when heated?)
>>>> Be patient.
>>>> Check the KOH.
>>>> Heat a sample of the oil. Stir it ... be careful, if there's
>>>> water in it
>>>> will spatter.
>>>> Hang in there,
>>>> Tom
>>>> P.S.
>>>> What % biodiesel do you intend to burn in your boiler?
>>>> Any adjustments to the burner (pressure, nozzle, air flow?)
>>>> (Just curious)
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Charles List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> To: <biofuel@sustainablelists.org>
>>>> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 6:38 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Hi Tom
>>>>>
>>>>> Right, feel I'm making some progress. After a very cold night
>>>>> (-6C) I
>>>>> can now see three layers in my 1l test batch of creamy canola if I
>>>>> shine a light behind it. Bottom layer (20%) is solid and dark redy-
>>>>> brown (glycerine I hope) then thin layer (5%) what looks like
>>>>> unreacted oil, then rest is dark brown "bio". It passes the wash
>>>>> test and the third wash leaves clean water underneath and brown
>>>>> "bio"
>>>>> on top. The "bio" also leaves about 20-30% residue in the methanol
>>>>> test.
>>>>>
>>>>> So, from this, if I assume my KOH is at fault (Occum's razor)
>>>>> then is
>>>>> there an easy way I can tell how much more KOH to add to
>>>>> compensate?
>>>>>
>>>>> In answer to your questions, the pre-treated oil turns very dark
>>>>> brown, almost black on heating past 25 degrees C and it titrates at
>>>>> 3.6ml (I use KOH for the titration too).
>>>>>
>>>>> My supply of normal canola has dried up as the restaurant owner has
>>>>> sold up and it is changing into an Indian take-away- so creamy
>>>>> canola
>>>>> is all I have to work with!!
>>>>>
>>>>> Best
>>>>>
>>>>> Charles
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 20/06/2006, at 4:25 AM, Thomas Kelly wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Charles,
>>>>>> I think you would get a split, whether your chemicals were
>>>>>> pure or
>>>>>> somewhat contaminated. The problem would be more a matter of
>>>>>> achieving a
>>>>>> complete reaction.
>>>>>> i.e. You would get biodiesel, but it might not pass quality tests.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I admit to being as perplexed as you
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Is it correct to say that your first problems arose
>>>>>> when you
>>>>>> started using the "creamy canola oil"?
>>>>>> (150 L batch and now w. 70L and even 1L batches).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> When I hear creamy oil I think animal fat and/or water buzzed
>>>>>> into the
>>>>>> oil by the impelled in a pump.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Do you pre-heat it before processing? If so, does it turn
>>>>>> clear? You
>>>>>> mention that the oil turns solid at 10C (50F). This suggests that
>>>>>> the oil
>>>>>> contains some animal fat ..... from cooking. The canola oil I've
>>>>>> used
>>>>>> remained liquid below 10C.
>>>>>> How does the color of the oil, after heating, compare to the
>>>>>> color of
>>>>>> the "biodiesel" you made? I've made some very dark BD from very
>>>>>> dark WVO.
>>>>>> (see archives: "Very Dark Biodiesel, help needed" Oct 20/05) I
>>>>>> couldn't see
>>>>>> the split w/o very bright light.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Let's just consider one or two things:
>>>>>> 1. You have done several successful test batches using virgin oil
>>>>>> and then
>>>>>> WVO so that you are on solid ground as to the measurements and
>>>>>> procedure. In
>>>>>> fact you have been successful scaling up to 40L. (I assume you
>>>>>> used a
>>>>>> different WVO)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 2. Re: your recent 1 L test batch:
>>>>>> You cannot see any split even when viewed w. a bright
>>>>>> light?
>>>>>> Remove a sample from the top and a sample from the bottom.
>>>>>> (Keep them
>>>>>> separate.)
>>>>>> Perform a wash test on each sample. Do the samples behave
>>>>>> differently
>>>>>> (from each other) when you perform a "wash test" on them?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What did you get for a titration on the oil?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If all else fails, you may have to go to other sources of
>>>>>> WVO.
>>>>>> You had
>>>>>> success up to 40L. You got clear cut splits, BD that washed, and
>>>>>> may well
>>>>>> have passed quality tests. Before frustration overwhelms you it
>>>>>> might be a
>>>>>> good idea to go back to where you were successful. Scale up using
>>>>>> the same
>>>>>> WVO that you were successful with and perform quality test to fine
>>>>>> tune your
>>>>>> process. If this "creamy canola" still fascinates you, do some 1L.
>>>>>> test
>>>>>> batches with it.
>>>>>> You mentioned New Zealand; winter on your doorstep. Gotta
>>>>>> get you
>>>>>> making heating fuel. I'm on the other side of the equator ....
>>>>>> summer's
>>>>>> heating up.
>>>>>> Good luck, and let me know how it goes.
>>>>>> Tom
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>> From: "Charles List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>>>> To: <biofuel@sustainablelists.org>
>>>>>> Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 4:29 PM
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi Tom
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks for that, I tried 70l at the weekend and end-product still
>>>>>>> black, so I tried a 1l batch, still black!! I am using new KOH
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> new methanol (as I'm scaling up I bought in bulk for the first
>>>>>>> time)
>>>>>>> so could it be one of these that's the problem? If so, how do I
>>>>>>> test
>>>>>>> if they're any good? I'm getting some kind of reaction as the
>>>>>>> black
>>>>>>> product is liquid at zero Celsius, and my oil is solid at 10
>>>>>>> degrees,
>>>>>>> but I can't see any split at all and, as I said, the product is
>>>>>>> very
>>>>>>> very dark brown, almost black!!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charles
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 17/06/2006, at 1:59 AM, Thomas Kelly wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Charles,
>>>>>>>> I think that if you drop back to 80 L you are still
>>>>>>>> making a
>>>>>>>> goodly bit
>>>>>>>> of fuel. You still may have to tweak the process ... increase
>>>>>>>> time
>>>>>>>> and or
>>>>>>>> temp. Get it right there and then go up in 5 or 10L increments,
>>>>>>>> testing each
>>>>>>>> batch, and again, tweaking, if necessary.
>>>>>>>> I went from small test batches and slowly increased
>>>>>>>> volume up
>>>>>>>> to 20 -
>>>>>>>> 25 L batches. I then jumped up to 130L batches.
>>>>>>>> When I discovered that the biodiesel wasn't as good as I
>>>>>>>> thought, I
>>>>>>>> dropped back to 76L (20 gal)batches. After increasing processing
>>>>>>>> time and
>>>>>>>> then increasing temp to 140F (60C) , I finally began to
>>>>>>>> consistently make BD
>>>>>>>> that passed the "methanol solubility test" and did not drop out
>>>>>>>> additional
>>>>>>>> glycerine when I reprocessed 1L of finished product.
>>>>>>>> The limitation on my system seems to be about 91L (24 gal)
>>>>>>>> and is
>>>>>>>> probably the volume limit of my pump, a 1" Clearwater pump.
>>>>>>>> I still quality test each batch, not just to be sure of the
>>>>>>>> fuel, but
>>>>>>>> as a maintenance test for the processor and the materials being
>>>>>>>> used. Is my
>>>>>>>> recovered methanol pure enough? (If I use the first 4 gal I
>>>>>>>> recover, the BD
>>>>>>>> passes the quality test. When I use the first 6 gallons, little
>>>>>>>> buggers show
>>>>>>>> up in the methanol sol. test).
>>>>>>>> Slow and methodical pays off.
>>>>>>>> Best of luck.
>>>>>>>> Let me know how it goes,
>>>>>>>> Tom
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>
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