Thanks for the second installment, Joel. 

I agree that Canadice is an excellent tasting and rewarding grape to 
grow.   We've had great luck with them here off of Synder Hill.  The 
vines actually produced a few clusters the first year.

We planted Bristol and Allen, which are both supposed to be virus-free 
varieties of black rasp, last year.  The canes grew well and we're 
hoping for some fruit this year.

How many years did it take for the kiwis to produce?

-- Katie Q-J




Joel and Sarah Gagnon wrote:
> Here is more of what I've learned in 30 years of trying to grow fruit under 
> suboptimal conditions in Tompkins County:
>
> Blackberries
>
> I have not done well with these, despite having no trouble growing them in 
> southern Maine earlier in my life. The problem here has been cane 
> hardiness. Blackberries fruit on the previous year's canes (although there 
> are a couple of new primocane-fruiting varieties that I am trying out). 
> Unless these survive the winter, no fruit. This is especially a problem 
> with the thornless varieties, which are marginally hardy in this area. You 
> should have no problem growing them in Ithaca and in protected locations 
> elsewhere. Otherwise easy to grow, the only problem I have had is 
> inadequate rainfall during fruiting.
>
> Black Raspberries
>
> These are dependably hardy and the cultivated varieties are as good or 
> better than most wild ones, while being considerably larger. Black 
> raspberries are susceptible to wilt and a number of virus diseases. If you 
> get wilt, you generally lose the plant, but not the planting. Plant in 
> well-drained soil. Avoid mulching right up against the base of the plant, 
> and plan on replacing the planting with a new one every few years (10 years 
> seems to be about the max). The virus is apparent in the foliage, which 
> looks mottled. Rogue plants showing signs of virus infection. Infected 
> plants go into a decline that limits their productivity. I compensate for 
> wilt and virus by overplanting. I plant in a staggered row with plants 
> about 2 feet apart. Blacks should be tipped (have the ends of the canes cut 
> off) when they are 2-3 feet tall to make them branch. Prune the branches 
> back in the spring to a foot or so in length and thin to the strongest 
> canes. Mold is a problem for us in a wet year. Not much we can do about that.
>
> Wineberries
>
> Non-native, these easy-to-grow fruits sport vicious thorns on attractive 
> red canes. Similar in culture to black raspberries, they also resemble them 
> in fruit shape, being a cap berry. The berries are hidden in a protective 
> cover until nearly ripe. Best eaten fresh, the jewel-like red fruits are a 
> bit tart but delicious. Only problem with these is that they are marginally 
> hardy here. No problem in the city, but in other areas they need a 
> protected spot. Will tolerate shade, unlike most fruit, so I grow them on 
> the north side of my garage (in a protected inside corner).
>
>
> Grapes
>
> I only grow table grapes, since neither of us drinks wine. I don't spray my 
> grape vines at all, so only the most disease-resistant varieties will do -- 
> especially since, with a valley location, air drainage is suboptimal. If 
> you have a better site (on a side hill, preferably above the lake), you 
> will be able to grow many more varieties with little or no spraying.
> The easiest white is Ontario. Seeded, but very pleasant. Only good as a 
> fresh-eating grape. Mildew is the only problem, and it is not bad most years.
> The easiest red is Canadice. Seedless too. Freezes well. Swensen is a 
> seeded red with non slipskin. Complex flavor hints of cherry. My favorite 
> variety. Freezes well also. Reliance is also good, but not quite as 
> dependable as Canadice. Seedless; freezes well.
> Among the blues, Concord is easiest in my planting. Steuben is also pretty 
> easy, but there will be some rot in a bad year. Same for Concord. We got 
> some rot in the Concords last year, but this is relatively rare. Both these 
> varieties are best for jam and juice, although ok as eating grapes. Concord 
> is unsurpassed for jam and other cooked uses. Not much good frozen.
> Any grape will stand on the vines after ripening for some considerable time 
> -- many days. Once picked, they will also store in the fridge in open 
> containers for weeks, enabling leisurely consumption or processing.
>
> Kiwis
>
> There are 2 types of kiwis that grow here -- Actinidia arguta and Actinidia 
> kolomikta. The argutas are very vigorous vines that need sturdy supports 
> and considerable pruning to restrain them. The kolomiktas are much less 
> vigorous and easily managed, with the males sporting attractive variegated 
> foliage.  Both kinds have delicious fruits, which look just like the 
> tropical kiwi on the inside, but in miniature. Fruits are a couple of cm 
> long, smooth skinned. The skins are edible, so the fruit is eaten just like 
> a grape. Not much bothers these vines, so they can be grown with no 
> spraying whatsoever.
> So, what problems are there? They leaf out way too early and have no frost 
> resistance. They often get zapped by frost here in the valley. They 
> revegetate, but the fruit is lost for the year. I got a nice crop of 
> kolomiktas last year only because I covered them (3 times!) to protect them 
> from frost. These would be easy in the city or on a side slope where frost 
> would not be a problem. I highly recommend the kolomiktas to city dwellers 
> with a little room for a trellis or even a little wall space.
> Much easier than grapes to grow -- but you do need to make space for at 
> least 2 vines since male and female are on separate vines (i.e., they are 
> dioecious).
>
> More on bigger trees next time.
>
> Joel
>
>
>
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