THIRUVANATHAPURAM-KIZHAKKE KOATTA

TRIVANDRUM –EAST FORT PART 2 

Dear friends, 

Recently there was a mail to mefrom our esteemed member Sri Ramani to write 
about Trivandrum experiences. Ireplied to him I would write in a fortnight. 

I had been long thirteen yearsat Trivandrum. This period was the most eventful 
period in my life. My childrengetting employment, the marriage of my children, 
my promotion as DivisionalEngineer at Calicut and Asst. General Manager and 
posting to Kerala Circleoffice was during the period. 

Throughout the period I wasliving in the Kaimanam RTTC Quarters near Karamana. 
Once Sri Ramani fromBangalore has visited me at Trivandrum. 

Kizhakke kkotta was my centralpoint of Travel. I startmy writings with East 
fort- Kizhakkae kkotta.  

Hope an interesting reading. Hereand there slight humour is added. The posting 
is in parts. Later developmentsare also added as I have visited Trivandrum 
after my retirement many times.Main reason- My daughter in law is from 
Trivandrum. 

This is part 2 of the posting. Here after I will discontinuethe introductory 
lines. 

Sincerely,

Gopala Krishnan 29-3-2012. 

Re- written and posted in parts with additions and updating. R. GopalaKrishnan 
01-06-2021 

5. Appa  and kuttiyana 

I do not know how I developed aliking to small  elephants in qualitywood and 
polished brown. The platforms near the temple and shops there sellvarieties of 
elephants. In Thampanoor platform sellers also had  wooden  elephants.  I 
purchased a few of different sizesand kept in show case. I complimented later 
most of them keeping three with me-One male, one femaleand one infant. Theyare 
well polished and still in my showcase. 

During my first visit to Dubai,my son in law desired two medium sized fair 
priced elephants. 

I purchased two quality ones fromKhadi craft, and packed and kept in hand as 
hand luggage. Each weighed about 4kg.   I got them billed perfectly with all 
details. 

The security  at Trivandrum opened and said it would  be repacked but  simply 
tied and gave back to me with a smiletelling I would  have no problem with my 
elephants at Dubai. 

At Dubai airport, I had a toughtime keeping the elephants and my brief case 
together in the escalators  without    slipping and falling . It was the first 
time Iwas using escalators. There were four or five escalators to reach out. 

As if she had ten years regularexperience in escalator riding, with her simple 
hand bag my wife was enjoyingthe escalator ride. 

Mami- why did’t  you help mama in carrying one elephant-Seeing from the above, 
waiting with our visa, my son in law asked. She smiledand diverted the topic 
calling grandson. I was travelling with a Xerox copy of visiting visa. 

When I see the advertisement of ladywho has difficulty in climbing escalator, 
but easy to select mutual funds inTV, nowadays  it takes me to 
nostalgicmemories of my first going in escalators. 

For returning and confirmingticket via Oman airways, their office was in 2nd 
floor of a building not having stairs orlifts but only escalator to go up and 
down!! I learnt at Dubai touse escalators. 

6. The chalai bazaar

Extending from East fort foranother 2 KMs towards East is the Chalai bazaar. In 
Trivandrum one of the roadsI have seen almost straight is this chalai bazaar. 
Many other bazaars have comeup later, but the chalai still hold its head with 
prestige. 

Especially for Brahmins, the place where every thing is available ischalai for 
all their samskaras. 

If anything is not available inchalai bazaar, it is difficult to get that item 
in Trivandrum. 

During my 60th birthday for danam one walking stick was required. Finally I got 
one from chalaikoyikkal umbrellas.  Palm leaf   hand fan and  aavani palakai 
were obtainedfrom Panduranga storesin Chalai. 

The swamy stores, in thebeginning of Chalai bazar  is  an indication Brahmins 
had  textile business and other business while migrating from Tirunelveli. They 
did not came merely for annadanamfrom Padmanabhaswamy temple. But many depended 
on the food from the temple isalso a fact. Quality textiles on fixed cash 
purchase are available at Swamystores. Swamy stores had / have everything from  
needles to different varieties and priced silkdhoties. 

6a. Chalai language. 

Most merchants are Saiva pillaiseither from Nagerkovil or born and brought up 
in Trivandrum. The gold andsilver smiths in Chalai will talk Tamil very 
beautifully and Malayalam stillfluently. Seeing the customer, they would change 
the language. If at all aBrahmin lady or girl ask for an item in Malayalam, she 
will be answered in Tamil and continued withTamil. 

6b Valiya chalai 

Valiya chalai is an extension ofchalai road with lesser  business nowtaking a 
turn to left, seen from East fort side. I am not sure how this placegot named 
so.  Valiya chalai was the areaof mat, bed and furniture merchants while I was 
in Trivandrum. 

Update- Now Valiyachalai has so much of business  as the name indicates 

7. Kottaikkakam and temple sides. 

Initially I had confusion aboutthe temple sides and fort sides. In some sides 
it is close and some sides  the fort is away. Specially   in thewestern side 
the fortside is about 700 meters away from the temple side. 

8. Ananthan kadu 

Having Sree Padmanabha lying onAnantha, I had a thinking the place is called 
Ananthapuri. There is anotherreason also. 

After a year I settled inTrivandrum, I joined the engineering employees  
society.  When I asked the way to collect a loan amount,the person told me to  
come to west nata,there is a small growth of trees in the western side of the 
temple for about200-300 square feet or so area called as Ananthan kadu. Take a 
turn to right, I can seesociety’s board. 

Nagaraja and Nagalakshmi arehoused along with other serpent Gods in 
Ananthankadu. 

As in Mannar sala and  Vetticode, Ayilyam and other sarpa poojas days are 
important herealso. 

Always we can see people crowdedthere for Naga worship. During those periods, I 
used to ask people (coming for astrologicalconsultations at Sreekanteswaram 
sabha), having sarpa dosha to worshipat Ananthan kadu. 

9. The west side of the temple and west fort. 

The west side of the temple started developing  fast. What was there in 1991 
was not the westside in 2004 when I left Trivandrum. It had become very busy 
area. I have towrite more on west side. I will go one by one.

9a. Potti’s petty shop 

Potti’s petty shop on the westside of the temple was supplying upaveetham to 
most Brahmins. Always I could see there crowd to getupaveetham. Potti used to 
keep upaveetham of different lengths, single, doubleand three’s and it was my 
practice to purchase and keep at least ten numbers. 

My son and son in law used totake 3 or 4 sets when they return back to Arabian 
countries after vacation. 

9b. Rasavada, sambar vada and thayir vada. 

There is another potti hotel onthe northern side of west nada, run by Tulu 
potties. The hotel was not looking good in1990’s though the stuff were good. By 
2002, the entire hotel was reconstructed, with nice look. If potti was not 
there it was a bulky potti ammamanaging the cash counter. 

While thayir vada and sambar vadawere with urdu dall(black gram) mostly, 
occasionally they too were with parippuvadai(Thurdal). Some days all vadais 
were parippu vadai. 

The rasa vada was  served  in  very hot rasam, The rasam vesselmight  be on a 
dim heat oven. My son usedto relish it more than other vadais. 

9c. Swamy hotel

Similar to potti hotel, the swamyhotel was in an old building on the western 
side,  on other side of the road. The speciality withswamy hotel was 
valsan(Elayada) used to be there on all days. Swamy too modified thebuilding 
and by 2001 itself it gave a good look.

Swamy had special customers, whoknow the timings he would  prepare,vegetable 
bonda, vada etc.  

9d Swamy hotel valsan 

In season with chakkavaratti,valsan was prepared with it. Otherwise, the valsan 
was prepared with bananafruit cut to pieces added to rice dough with jaggery 
and added spices. Thisvalsan prepared in plantain leaf, gave 50-60 % 
satisfaction on consuming. 

10. West side Kalyana mandapams 

We have new Kalyana mandapams inwest side- The biggest  one Srivaikuntam. Then 
smaller ones like Pancha janyam, NSS and Ratna mahal. Brahaminspreferred  
mostly the Ratna mahal ifavailable, which give a domestic look. 

We have a number of caterers whoarrange every- thing  in the western nada. 
Depending on the period, there would be change in items. 

I had taken for my daughter’smarriage Pancha janyam, which gave a good look and 
less costlier. It is managedby a trust at west nada and has sufficient parking 
facilities. 

For my son’s marriage, which wasproposed to be conducted with in a fortnight 
after betrothal,  the NSS was selected, a good looking one, butdining hall with 
lesser space, the only one available on the date. 

10a. Son in law and daughter try to get three seats  for my GMs in the dining 
hall . 

There had been a good number ofinvitees from my side as well as from my 
sambandhi’s side for my son’s marriage.The marriage too was on Sunday after 
noon. 

My  friends and officers, my sambandhimama’s  friends and officers working 
inpostal side, mami working as senior scientist in ISRO, her friends 
andofficers  , in short  even in the third panthi, there was full  rush. My 
three GMs were waiting chit chattingspending somehow the time and my son in law 
reccognised it. 

In the fourth panthi he got inwith my daughter ,occupied  one desk, andafter 
serving in 4 leaves, came out and my GMS were asked to follow. Though they were 
telling no hurry- still theirface was telling they were hungry. 

I will continue in next posting 

 

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