Perrier, I think that I would take a well-working 10811 over the E1938A.
I've got a handful of both, one even came inside a Z3815A and all of the 10811 units are better than all of the 1938's for unknown reasons. The 1938A is quite a bit more stable over temp in general though I think, but thats offset by its typical crystal jumps. In fact the E1938A inside the Z3815A I have is a disaster in terms of stability, phase noise, and spurs when compared to all of my 10811 driven Z3805A units. That is very likely mostly caused by the much poorer design of the Z3815A when compared to the Z3805A. Bye, Said On Jul 4, 2013, at 22:23, Perry Sandeen <sandee...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > List, > > I was looking on Ebay for some HP E1938A > oscillators > > What I found listed were: > > HP E1938A 10 MHz Quartz Oscillator with EFC on PC > board. $100 Fluke.l > > HP E1938-60201 Ovenized Crystal Oscillator (on a PC board) $100 Tomy Chou > > HP E1938A Ovenized Crystal Oscillator W/O a PC board for $50 and free > shipping from 2010bluebook. > My question is thus: What does the PC board do? All I need is a HP EFC > oscillator that would > be better that my HP 10811-60111’s. > > Do I need to worry that the E1938A’s without the > board maybe of lessor quality than the others? > > Fluke.l says his units are good but not stellar. The other venders say they > have tested the > units and guarantee them to be good. If > so, would it get better with aging? > > So what does the collective wisdom/experience of > the group think? TIA > > Regards, > > Perrier > > > ________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
