Hi Bob,
Not quite. You push the thick end of the plastic plug (technically a "wire hole 
filler" which says it all) into the rubber seal from the wire (back) side of 
the connector. You should of course have put an uncrimped pin in the positon 
first. 
There is some guidance here 
http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/faq/pdf/csg130-132.pdf
Note that this is a MIL-DTL-5015 series connector and is also available with 
fixed solder pins (class A and C) rather than the removeable pis of the class R 
if to are bored see 
http://www.assistdocs.com/search/document_details.cfm?ident_number=5201&StartRow=1&PaginatorPageNumber=1&doc_id=5015&status_all=ON&search_method=BASIC
and click on the revision H pdf icon.

HTH,
Robert G8RPI




________________________________
 From: Bob Stewart <b...@evoria.net>
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <time-nuts@febo.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, 10 December 2013, 18:38
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] MS3106R10SL-4S connector question
 

Thanks Robert.  So, am I right in thinking that you insert the small end from 
the connector side of the rubber grommet and pull it through until the thick 
part just touches the narrowed place in the grommet?  They have it sized to 
imply that.  Are there any assembly documents on the net that lay it out in a 
straightforward manner?  I couldn't find anything related to the plastic pin.  
Note that this is for future info.  I've assembled my connector with 2 wires 
and given it my blessing.  =)

Bob




>________________________________

> From: Robert Atkinson <robert8...@yahoo.co.uk>
>To: "j...@quikus.com" <j...@quikus.com>; Discussion of precise time and 
>frequency measurement <time-nuts@febo.com> 
>Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 12:27 PM
>Subject: Re: [time-nuts] MS3106R10SL-4S connector question
> 
>
>Hi,
>John is correct. The plastic pin is used when a contact position is not wired. 
>You put the unwired pin in first and then insert the plastic pin behind it, 
>thick end first. It replaces the wire to seal that individual hole and also 
>maintain correct seal pressure on the other wires. Blue for #16 pins, Red for 
>#20. Not required if you don't need a full environmental seal. 
>
>Robert G8RPI. CEng, MRAeS, EASA licenced avionics engineer. (i.e. this is a 
>definitive answer, I can certify that one of these is correctly installed on 
>an aircraft :-)
>
>
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