Guess I'll answer part of my own question ...

Was regenerating the OAuth keys I use for testing and noticed that the 
"Connections" part of the profile is what I was missing.  So on a hunch I 
just went to /apps with my new account and bob's-your-uncle there was the 
magic page.

Of course this *still* doesn't let me sign into the dev.twitter.com site - 
but I only wanted to do that to get to the register app page.

How long has OAuth been in use and the documentation is still a mess?  Sorry 
to be snarky but I can't imagine what someone new to twitter must go thru :/

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