Removing the nautilus config file and killing all nautilus processes did the 
trick here:
rm -vr ~/.gconf/apps/nautilus && killall nautilus
Relevant discussion at ubuntuforums.org: 
http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1483838

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nautilus doesn't honor gnome theme
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/500417
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