You're right. It's the theming issue. 
I have /home partition inherited from Lucid. After resetting all Gnome settings 
with 
rm -rf .gnome .gnome2 .gconf .gconfd .metacity
the active sheet name is back!:)

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/786586

Title:
  11.04 + LibreOffice = problem with text on sheets, tabs, etc

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