I opted for a Openmoko Freerunner  last august. development has been
slower than some would have expected and there are a couple of
hardware buzzing issues. (there is a fix but requires soldering) There
are plenty of distros [1] for it including two based on debian and
there is also a beta port of android released by koolu. status etc
here [2]

although android on the freerunner is not quite ready as a daily phone
many others are using other ditros quite happily.

as far as i know androids filesytem on the g1 provided by t-mobile is
readonly. it has been cracked twice and then patched again in updates.
google is offering a developer edition of the g1 which solves this
problem but this would not come with the unlimited data contract from
t-mobile.

also worth noting that there is also a g2 handset on the way. which
does not feature a keyboard. Thus awaiting the cupcake release which
should include a virtual keyboard.  some great guys in the community
have added a virtual keyboard to the koolu release but it has issues
with not being able to input text in some of the dialogs.

as for the android os look and feel. i realy like it. some nice
visuals and snappy screens.

azmodie

[1] http://wiki.openmoko.org/wiki/Distributions
[2] http://freerunner.android.koolu.com/

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