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Subject: NYTimes.com Article: In Johannesburg, Antelope Steaks and Some African Drama
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 21:08:15 -0500 (EST)
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In Johannesburg, Antelope Steaks and Some African Drama
October 28, 2003
By BERNARD SIMON
LONG before the end of apartheid, white-owned businesses
were fleeing the center of Johannesburg, South Africa's
biggest city. Even the Johannesburg stock exchange has
relocated to Sandton, eight miles north of downtown and now
the main business and shopping hub.
Though Johannesburg is generally a pleasant and hospitable
city with modern amenities, crime remains high. Visitors
should observe some basic precautions, like locking car
doors at all times and not driving at night without clear
directions.
AIRPORT
Johannesburg International Airport, 15 miles southeast of
Sandton, is a privatization success story for the
post-apartheid government. Run by the Airports Company of
South Africa, which is partly owned by the Italian company
Aeroporti di Roma, the airport has been transformed over
the last decade. The international terminal is often
congested in the early evening, when most overseas flights
depart.
Taxis and public transportation are generally unreliable in
Johannesburg. Arriving passengers who are not being met by
a local contact should pick up a rental car at the airport.
HOTELS
Rex McLennan, chief financial officer of Placer Dome, a
Canadian gold producer, chooses either the SANDTON SUN AND
TOWERS INTERCONTINENTAL (011-27-11-780-5000, $260 and up)
or the MICHELANGELO (011-27-11-282-7000, $270) on his
regular visits to Johannesburg. Both are connected to
shops, restaurants and cinemas. Mr. McLennan says he
especially likes the fitness center at the Sandton Sun. (To
call Johannesburg from the United States, dial 011,
followed by 27-11, then the number.)
When Placer Dome held a board meeting in Johannesburg two
years ago, its directors stayed at THE SAXON (292-6000,
$590), set in six acres of gardens in a quiet residential
neighborhood.
Christine Qunta, a Cape Town lawyer, said that staff
members at the GRACE HOTEL (280-7200, $350) "really bend
over backwards to meet every demand." She recalls them
ordering in soya milk powder to make her a soya smoothie.
RESTAURANTS
Marlin Hitzeroth, general manager of Thengisa
Media, a publishing group, describes the curries at BUKHARA
(883-5555, $40 for dinner for two, including wine, tax and
tip) as "absolutely phenomenal." Mr. Hitzeroth, especially
likes the rogan josh, which is subtly spiced but not too
hot.
Monica Singer, chief executive of Strate, the stock
exchange's electronic settlement arm, likes the outdoor
patio at THE BULL RUN (884-1400, $50), opposite the
exchange. "With the South African weather, it's the ideal
place to have lunch for at least seven months a year," she
says.
The more intimate - and pricier - LINGER LONGER (884-0465,
$75) is known for its preparations of guinea fowl, ostrich
and kudu, a kind of antelope. Tables can be booked in the
restaurant's private garden.
Melville, a neighborhood midway between Sandton and
downtown, has a cluster of popular restaurants, wine bars
and clubs. Herbert Mkhize, executive director of Nedlac,
which mediates negotiations involving government, business
and labor, says the area has transcended South Africa's
cultural differences. One of his favorite eating spots
there is SAM'S CAF� (726-8142, $40).
ENTERTAINMENT
Innovative South African repertory can often be seen at the
MARKET THEATER (832-1641), in a former fruit and vegetable
market on the western fringe of downtown. Almost next door
to the theater is MUSEUM AFRICA (833-5624), depicting South
African culture and history. The new Nelson Mandela Bridge
has improved access to the area, though it is best to have
a companion with local knowledge, especially at night.
The APARTHEID MUSEUM (309-4700), a 25-minute drive from
Sandton, is especially enlightening for visitors with
little knowledge of the darkest period of South African
history.
For an insight into the daily lives of most black South
Africans, several companies offer tours of Soweto, the
sprawling residential area on the southwestern outskirts of
Johannesburg. TALK TOURS (487-1798) is run by a nonprofit
agency. IMBIZO TOURS (838-2667) picks up customers from
Sandton and Rosebank hotels.
WANDIES PLACE (982-2796) is a popular, though somewhat
tourist-oriented, bar and restaurant in the Dube district
of Soweto. Besides Western fare, the buffet includes
traditional African dishes like oxtail stew, tripe and
maize porridge. Again, a companion who knows the area is
recommended.
This feature about places to stay, eat and visit in leading
business destinations appears every Tuesday.
http://www.nytimes.com/2003/10/28/business/28ground.html?ex=1068393295&ei=1&en=8bafe6dfc8c16cfd
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