Raleigh,
IMHO ... I would attempt to set the screws for about 3 - 3.5% ... I
think factory US bikes are set very lean between 1 and 2%.
You should be able to move your mixture screws with some ease and only
the tension of the springs should be offering resistance ... If this
is not the case then I would recommend taking them out completely and
cleaning them. If you have any that are not in excellent shape then I
would replace them because if you fracture a head it will be extremely
difficult to remove the screw for replacement. If you haven't done so
already I would suggest you take them all the way out anyhow .. clean
them and coat them with Never-Seize or a silicone grease. If you
unscrew them all the way out and can't get a hold of them then try
stuffing a piece of thinwall 1/4 inch plastic tubing in the hole and
over the mixture screw .... If this doesn't work then try a blast of
air in the "large" jet at the top of the carb ... this will send them
flying out the hole, (put your hand in front of the mixture screw hole
to catch all the parts ... screw, washer, spring and perhaps the
o-ring if it is having a nice day ... ).
Of course you need a screwdriver with the best fit possible .. and it
helps to paint a stripe on the back end of the handle to make it
easier to count the number of turns when making adjustments. Once the
screws are moving freely you should be able to turn them all the way
in quite easily and it should be very obvious when they are completely
seated ... (don't crank down on them .. be gentle).
Hopefully, if you close one completely it will also be very obvious
that the engine is struggling ... and would like to have the fuel it
was getting when the screw was open ... If you are closing any screw
and nothing changes at all as far as idle quality then that mixture
screw is not doing anything and the pilot mixture may be blocked or
the throttle plate is way out of sync. You might just want to pull
these screws and put some carb cleaner in the holes followed up with a
blast of compressed air .... A blast of air in the "large" jet at the
top of the carb helps to, (this is the primary pilot air jet), but be
careful as this will cause fuel to blow up out of the carb, (cover it
with a rag).
When you are done fooling with these guys ... go to the hardware store
and purchase some little 1/4 inch plastic plugs, (check out the area
in the hardware store where they have plastic caps for lawn furniture,
steel tubing etc .... ). Put these plugs over the holes to reduce
corrosion, (of course this assumes you have lubed the screws first).
campbell
vmoa #95
----- Original Message -----
From: "raleigh 2K" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: setting pilots via CO2 readings
> snip <
> i now want to set the pilot screws( brass plugs were out when i
> purchased the bike ). i have started by attempting to set the
> pilot screws to 2.5 turns out. but i am not real confident that i
> found their baseline turned-in position to begin with.
>
> reading the CO2 using my JC Whitney special, the CO2 values
> are: cyl1: 7.1% cyl2: 7.0% cyl3: 6.2% cyl4: 5.8%
>
> here's my questions:
> when turning in the pilot screw, how do i know when it is in it's
> full-in position? slight resistence? tight resistence? sharp
. change in rpm??
>
> what is a good range to shoot for in the CO2 values( or what
> are the settings from the factory )? is this even a reliable
> method for getting the pilot screw settings matched up?
>
> oh, the bike runs pretty good as it stands now, though lower
> speed cruising is kinda finicky. and cyl1's exhaust sounds / feels
> different than the other 3 cylinders. it is more of a potato pop
blast,
> where as the others are smoother, more consistent rumbling.
> snip <
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