VACList DigestVACList-Digest Wednesday, May 22, 2002 Issue 311
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Tire replacement worries
2. Re: propane lines
3. Re: Tire replacement worries
4. Re: Tire replacement worries
5. Re: Tire replacement worries
6. Re: Tire replacement worries
7. 1948 Alma
8. Re: propane lines
9. Re: Black tank flange
10. Univolt Vs. Intellipower
11. Re: propane lines
12. Re: propane lines
13. Re: 1948 Alma
14. goin' travelling!
15. Re: Propane lines
16. Re: Propane lines
17. Feb 2003 RV Show needs 1950's Trailers
18. Re: Propane lines
19. 1976 Argosy restoration
20. Re: 1976 Argosy restoration
21. Re: Black tank flange
22. Re: propane lines
23. Safety Chains
24. Re: Safety Chains
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:30:14 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire replacement worries
Greetings Charlotte!
>
> It's time to replace the tires on my '67 Safari.I have been told that the
> best replacement tire would be the Goodyear Marathon ST/75R15,load range
D.
>
> I now hear that these tires have been problematic in the past,and even
the
> subject of a recall last year.Should I be concerned about this,or has the
> problem been fixed?Anyone using recent issues of these tires?Is there
> another tire I should be considering?Any and all opinions appreciated!
The issue that caused the recall should be remedied by this time. It would
probably be wise to have your dealer cross-reference the identification
numbers on the tires he/she is selling you to be certain that they are not
refugees from the recall. It also might not be a bad idea to ask the dealer
to check the date code and be sure that the tires have not been warehoused
for an inordinate amount of time. A reputable tire dealer should not have
any problems answering these two questions - - I know that my local Good
Year dealer was happy to provide answers to these questions.
I have had my Good Year Marathons for about three years now, and they were
among the era of tires recalled. My dealer checked the codes with those of
the recall and found only one that matched the codes - - but as a gesture
toward customer good will - - he replaced both tires on that axle for the
same pro-rated charged. I have never felt anything but safe with these
tires on my coach, and the tires now have over 15,000 miles of troublefree
travel.
>
> And on a related note,do you all take your spare tire on every trip?I
> ask,as I hate that the only place I can store mine is on the tongue and I
> have just nicely polished that area....hate to cover it up!I have been
given
> an aerosal bottle of some stuff to use in case of a flat.It is supposed to
> "patch" it from the inside.I was told that I could just go with this and
> carry an inflator that runs off my battery to get myself back on the road
in
> case of a flat.I am really unsure whether this is wise advice or not.Does
> anyone use this,or a similar method and leave their spare at home?
>
I carry a spare at all times as well as the emergency inflation product. <I
was fortunate in that an earlier owner had the rear frame reinforced and a
tire mount placed on the rear bumper for the spare.> The emergency
inflation products are generally only going to help if the culprit of the
problem is either a leaky valve stem, or a small puncture in the tread. If
one of these products is used, it is essential that the tire service
technician be advised the product used and its composition as some of the
products are flammable and/or potentially explosive if exposed to flame or
spark which is quite possible in many tire shops. The spare is there in the
event of a blowout, sidewall problem, tread separation, or some other type
of large puncture.
My fear, traveling in a single-axle trailer without a spare would be the
circumstances that you might find yourself in should you have a blowout,
tread separation, or other non-repairable tire failure. You might find
yourself miles from the nearest tire dealer with the proper ST rated tire
for your trailer, and you would be at the mercy of whaterver tire dealer was
available. A problem under these conditions could also leave your trailer
stranded beside the road for an excessively long time. The problem is a
little less of an issue with a tandem axle trailer as it would be possible
to run with one wheel/tire assembly removed for a short distance (I wouldn't
try it with my rig, but it was suggested in the literature that came with my
trailer).
Another question that you didn't pose, but you might want to consider. When
purchasing your tires, don't take chances. If at all possible, take your
trailer to the selected dealer and allow him/her to measure all clearances
and order the properly sized tire - - with clearances being tight
(especially in many of the single axle rigs), it is possible that a modern
equivalent to the size recommended by the factory in '67 may not be
compatible with your trailer. If the tire dealer orders the tire and then
it doesn't fit, the responsibility is his and not yours. I did this with my
'64 Overlander - - it meant two trips to the dealer, but the tire sizing and
fit was never a question (my Good Year dealer doesn't stock ST tires in his
store, but he was able to order them early in the week and had them ready to
install the following Saturday morning).
Good luck with your tire decision!
Kevin Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:45:02 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: propane lines
Thanks all for the propane line info. I'm going to use the black iron pipe
for a manifold style supply. The 1/2 inch size isn't a problem with me but
I see the regulator only has a 3/8 inch outlet so could I use a 3/8 inch pipe?
Bob P
At 07:17 PM 5/21/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Chris,
> FWIW: both of our Avion trailers use 1/2" black iron pipe right down the
> center of the trailer to the first connection. Actually, that connection
> is where gas is supplied to the fridge, furnace, and stove, so there's
> minimal pressure drop for all the appliances. The branch feeds are all
> 3/8" copper tubing.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
>Chris Bryant wrote:
>
>>Bob Patterson wrote:
>>
>>>Hi All,
>>>I'm running new propane lines under my A/S. Do I need to use copper
>>>tubing or can I use high pressure hose made for propane use?
>>>Bob
>>>
>> I would use copper- if you want to do something a little more
>>rigid, use black iron for a manifold under the trailer, and copper for
>>the final connection.
>> While code does allow flexible lines (if UL approved)- it
>>really isn't recommended, plus the main reason is that it is hard to
>>find a "rubber" line large enough- the main line should be at least
>>1/2" (3/4" is better), with the individual lines being 3/8".
>
>
>--
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:59:10 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire replacement worries
Charlotte,
I have been using Good Year Marathons for at least 15 years. No problems.
The first set were load range B's. Grossly underrated for my 5000#
Overlander with only one axle, but they held up fine! When I discovered that
the GY dealer installed underrated tires another GY dealer replaced them for
free! The second set were the load range D's that gave me several years of
excellent service before being replaced under the recall 3 years ago. The
new load range D's have a circle around the D. I understand that they are
reinforced. These also are giving me very satisfactory service. In my book
Goodyear Marathons are the way to go.
About the spare...the time you leave it at home will be the time you need
it. While I have not had any troubles with the tires, I have had problems
with the valve stems springing a leak on a couple of occasions. Perhaps you
could store the spare in your tow vehicle?
Scott
----- Original Message -----
> Hi everyone,
>
> It's time to replace the tires on my '67 Safari.I have been told that the
> best replacement tire would be the Goodyear Marathon ST/75R15,load range
D.
>
> I now hear that these tires have been problematic in the past,and even
the
> subject of a recall last year.Should I be concerned about this,or has the
> problem been fixed?Anyone using recent issues of these tires?Is there
> another tire I should be considering?Any and all opinions appreciated!
>
> And on a related note,do you all take your spare tire on every trip?I
> ask,as I hate that the only place I can store mine is on the tongue and I
> have just nicely polished that area....hate to cover it up!I have been
given
> an aerosal bottle of some stuff to use in case of a flat.It is supposed to
> "patch" it from the inside.I was told that I could just go with this and
> carry an inflator that runs off my battery to get myself back on the road
in
> case of a flat.I am really unsure whether this is wise advice or not.Does
> anyone use this,or a similar method and leave their spare at home?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Charlotte
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:51:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Rowbottom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire replacement worries
Hi Charlotte
Last winter, in Florida, we hit something on the road
and the 2 year old tire on our 67 Safari blew into
little pieces. It was a Sunday and we did have a very
old spare that got us to Paradise Airstream park. I
spent two days locating a set of 700 x 15 Radial tires
D rated.
I even had a second spare that was not mounted on a
wheel but that is overboard. I also have a small
compressor and use it to keep the pressure right.
The moral is take the spare everytime you pull the
trailer.
My spare fits in a space under the front of the
trailer on a frame that drops down when needed.
Doug
> Hi everyone,
>
> And on a related note,do you all take your spare
> tire on every trip?I
> ask,as I hate that the only place I can store mine
> is on the tongue and I
> have just nicely polished that area....hate to cover
> it up!I have been given
> an aerosal bottle of some stuff to use in case of a
> flat.It is supposed to
> "patch" it from the inside.I was told that I could
> just go with this and
> carry an inflator that runs off my battery to get
> myself back on the road in
> case of a flat.I am really unsure whether this is
> wise advice or not.Does
> anyone use this,or a similar method and leave their
> spare at home?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Charlotte
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:59:54 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire replacement worries
Carry the spare in the tow vehicle. I found a clamp for the side of the
pickup bed to hold the truck spare and another for the trailer spare
when I have the trailer on the road.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 23:43:39 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire replacement worries
Hi Charlotte
I installed Goodyear Marathons on my TradeWind Saturday. I have talked to
several people that really like them. They should have a "S" in a circle
after the word radial on the sidewall, then they are not the recalled batch.
I paid $150 Canadian each at Fountain Tire.
How are the rest of your projects coming along?
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charcigar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 5:52 PM
Subject: [VAC] Tire replacement worries
> Hi everyone,
>
> It's time to replace the tires on my '67 Safari.I have been told that the
> best replacement tire would be the Goodyear Marathon ST/75R15,load range
D.
>
> I now hear that these tires have been problematic in the past,and even
the
> subject of a recall last year.Should I be concerned about this,or has the
> problem been fixed?Anyone using recent issues of these tires?Is there
> another tire I should be considering?Any and all opinions appreciated!
>
> And on a related note,do you all take your spare tire on every trip?I
> ask,as I hate that the only place I can store mine is on the tongue and I
> have just nicely polished that area....hate to cover it up!I have been
given
> an aerosal bottle of some stuff to use in case of a flat.It is supposed to
> "patch" it from the inside.I was told that I could just go with this and
> carry an inflator that runs off my battery to get myself back on the road
in
> case of a flat.I am really unsure whether this is wise advice or not.Does
> anyone use this,or a similar method and leave their spare at home?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Charlotte
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 01:54:26 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: 1948 Alma
In a message dated 5/20/02 5:01:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1948 23' Alma trailer
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the note. To answer your question, "No, I'm not aware of any
information on the Alma trailer." Although I've heard of it, I don't have a
picture of it among the collection on my hard drive. >>
Yes, they DO exist....I've seen a photo of one.
Wendy
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 02:27:54 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: propane lines
Jim, does this black iron pipe run outside, below the aluminum belly pan, or
above the aluminum skin? And is it drilled and tapped to accept a 3/8" male
brass flare fitting?
Jim Dunmyer wrote:
> Chris,
> FWIW: both of our Avion trailers use 1/2" black iron pipe right down
> the center of the trailer to the first connection. Actually, that
> connection is where gas is supplied to the fridge, furnace, and stove,
> so there's minimal pressure drop for all the appliances. The branch
> feeds are all 3/8" copper tubing.
>
> <<Jim>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 08:12:18 -0400
From: "Osowski, D. B. (David)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black tank flange
Thanks for the advice Brad. I guess it was a pipe dream (no pun
intended)
thinking of some magical way of removal. To answer Terry's and Jame's
questions: I bought this trailer with heater, toilet, sink, & shower
gone.
I will replace with a small bath vanity, sink, & new toilet. There was a
large hole (rotted away) where the toilet used to be. I dropped the rear
half of the belly pan, removed the tank housing & tank, removed the
floor,
cleaned & painted the frame, and am now ready to install my new
floor.I'm
now debating on relocating the toilet off to one side a bit more and
having
a custom black tank made. Decisions, decisions.
Any opinions and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Dave Osowski
Michigan
1966 Overlander
>
> Hi Dave,
> I just went through this same thing last week. After shooting several coats
> of penetrating oil on the threads, I ended up using my angle grinder with a
> cut-off wheel to get it out. Kinda tricky, but once you get the top flange
> off, I used a chisel and hammer to unscrew it. Be patient and it should come
> out.
>
> Brad Norgaard
> '59 Trade Wind
> Phoenix
> WBCCI #2699, VAC
>
> by on 5/21/02 11:26 AM, Osowski, D. B. (David) at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
> > This is my first post of what I am sure will be many. Does anyone
> > know of a way to remove a badly rusted toilet flange from the black
> > tank? I have the tank out but the flange will not turn. Also, should
> > I do some sort of leak test on this tank while I have it out? I can
> > see no signs of cracks but the top surface seems to be warped.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 07:23:36 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Univolt Vs. Intellipower
Inland RV wrote:
"The 55 amp univolt from us costs $265.00. The intelli-power with wizard
costs $277.88."
FYI, I just bought an intillipower with wizard, factory rebuilt from
intillipower and 1-year warrantee, for $165.45 delivered. That's the same
price as their 40 amp rebuilts, because when I called a couple weeks ago,
they were out of 40-amp units and sold me the 55 amp unit at the same price.
I've yet to install it, but if you're looking for one, now is an excellent
time to buy.
Dan
75 Argosy 26
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:57:38 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: propane lines
Bob,
On my trailers, the regulator output has a rather largish hose that
runs to the black iron pipe. I'd guess it to be 1/2" I.D.
<<Jim>>
Bob Patterson wrote:
> Thanks all for the propane line info. I'm going to use the black iron
> pipe for a manifold style supply. The 1/2 inch size isn't a problem with
> me but I see the regulator only has a 3/8 inch outlet so could I use a
> 3/8 inch pipe?
> Bob P
>
> At 07:17 PM 5/21/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> Chris,
>> FWIW: both of our Avion trailers use 1/2" black iron pipe right down
>> the center of the trailer to the first connection. Actually, that
>> connection is where gas is supplied to the fridge, furnace, and stove,
>> so there's minimal pressure drop for all the appliances. The branch
>> feeds are all 3/8" copper tubing.
>>
>> <<Jim>>
>>
>> Chris Bryant wrote:
>>
>>> Bob Patterson wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi All,
>>>> I'm running new propane lines under my A/S. Do I need to use copper
>>>> tubing or can I use high pressure hose made for propane use?
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>> I would use copper- if you want to do something a little more
>>> rigid, use black iron for a manifold under the trailer, and copper for
>>> the final connection.
>>> While code does allow flexible lines (if UL approved)- it
>>> really isn't recommended, plus the main reason is that it is hard to
>>> find a "rubber" line large enough- the main line should be at least
>>> 1/2" (3/4" is better), with the individual lines being 3/8".
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
>> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>>
>> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 10:04:29 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: propane lines
Rik,
This BI pipe has a BI 'Tee' fitting(s) on the end, IIRC. Everything is
below the belly skin.
What I would do is install 2 or 3 'Tees' on the end of the pipe OR a
'cross' fitting if you can find one. Install reducing bushings to mate
to the 3/8" brass flare fittings. If your trailer is laid out in typical
fashion, 2 or 3 of the (usually) 4 gas appliances are in very close
proximity. In my trailers, the fridge and furnace are adjacent, with the
range being across the aisle. A cross and a tee would allow connection
of the branch feeds to the 1/2" pipe, with the last tee feeding out the
end to 3/8" tubing to the water heater.
The nice thing about using BI pipe is less pressure drop when multiple
appliances are firing and it's much more durable than copper. IE: a
stone won't injure it and it's more self-supporting.
<<Jim>>
Rik & Susan Beeson wrote:
> Jim, does this black iron pipe run outside, below the aluminum belly pan, or
> above the aluminum skin? And is it drilled and tapped to accept a 3/8" male
> brass flare fitting?
>
> Jim Dunmyer wrote:
>
>
>>Chris,
>> FWIW: both of our Avion trailers use 1/2" black iron pipe right down
>>the center of the trailer to the first connection. Actually, that
>>connection is where gas is supplied to the fridge, furnace, and stove,
>>so there's minimal pressure drop for all the appliances. The branch
>>feeds are all 3/8" copper tubing.
>>
>> <<Jim>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 08:59:00 -0500
From: "D. Reilly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1948 Alma
Go here for a picture of a 1946 Alma. This is a very interesting site.
http://www.allmanufacturedhomes.com/html/1946_alma.htm
>
> Yes, they DO exist....I've seen a photo of one.
> Wendy
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 11:39:56 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: goin' travelling!
I'll be leaving both the Airstream and VAC lists later today, as we're
going travelling for a couple of weeks. Will re-up about June 7th.
We'll probably be able to check our Email once or twice during the trip,
so can be contacted that way.
<<Jim>>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 11:33:38 -0500
From: "Bob Harper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Propane lines
Could someone please elaborate on the reasoning for running the propane
lines "outboard"? Meaning on the underside of the belly pan instead of
above it. And on a related subject (maybe), is it a major no-no to drill
any holes in the vertical web of the main frame members for routing of
wiring and/or water supply?
Bob Harper
'62 Globe Trotter in SC
____________________________________________________________________________
______
>Jim Dunmeyer wrote:
>Chris,
> FWIW: both of our Avion trailers use 1/2" black iron pipe right down
>the center of the trailer to the first connection.
<<Jim>>
_________________________________________________________________
Chris Bryant wrote:
> Bob Patterson wrote:
>
>
>>Hi All,
>>I'm running new propane lines under my A/S. Do I need to use copper tubing
>>or can I use high pressure hose made for propane use?
>>
>>
> I would use copper- if you want to do something a little more
> rigid, use black iron for a manifold under the trailer, and copper for
> the final connection.
> While code does allow flexible lines (if UL approved)- it
> really isn't recommended, plus the main reason is that it is hard to
> find a "rubber" line large enough- the main line should be at least
> 1/2" (3/4" is better), with the individual lines being 3/8".
>
>
--
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 10:48:44 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Propane lines
Propane is heavier than air and settles down. Far safer to be outside
the skin that inside the skin when it leaks.
Holes in the vertical web of the main frame members do weaken the
member. Small holes centered in the web weaken it the least.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:59:03 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Feb 2003 RV Show needs 1950's Trailers
For those of you in the California area, looking to show off your 1950's era
Airstream next Spring:
I have started planning for our 50th annual Sacramento Sports, Boat & RV
Show that will be February 14-17, 2003 at Cal Expo. We would love to have
some 1953 vintage RV's and boats on display and we're hoping that some of
your club members might be interested. You may email me or call me at my
office (888)862-8924. Any help would be very appreciated.
Eve Hay
Show Manager
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 13:06:36 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Propane lines
Bob. LPG lines must "NEVER" be hidden. They are permitted to go through the
underbelly and then through the floor, BUT, there must not be any connections
within that enclosed area. Leaks can and do happen. If you had an LPG leak
above the underbelly and below the floor, you would be setting yourself up
for a tremendous explosion, should a leak happen, and then find a spark.
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:41:33 +0000
From: "Jamie Swallow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1976 Argosy restoration
Hi everyone:
For those who are interested, (or may remember), I finally finished the
complete restoration on my 1976 28' Argosy. It took 9 1/2 months, (8 1/2 of
work, and one month of not being able to get to it.), but my father and I
did it. I had the opportunity to test all systems on it's maiden voyage
last weekend, (the Victoria Day weekend), and everything worked flawlessly.
All pictures relating to the restoration can be seen at
www.angelfire.com/ns2/argosy, so feel free to take a look around and ask any
questions.
Thanks for all the info I gathered in "lurk" mode while working on this
project.
Jamie
'76 28' Argosy
'95 Chev extended cab
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:28:42 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1976 Argosy restoration
Uh Jamie, may I be the first to offer my congratulations on one of the best
documented frame-off complete restorations I've seen. Holy s***! is the
only thing that comes to mind. A beautiful job, and a beautiful trailer.
One question, we never see the floor on the frame extraction and
reinstallation. Is it left in the shell? What condition was it in? I'm
used to seeing it always attached to the frame, so I guess you found every
stinking bolt in the floor & U channel and lifted it off with the shell?
Was all that axle, wheel and frame damage from road salt?
Once again, great job. You've depicted what vintage restoration is all
about.
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
Jamie's link:
http://www.angelfire.com/ns2/argosy
> From: "Jamie Swallow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:41:33 +0000
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] 1976 Argosy restoration
>
> Hi everyone:
>
> For those who are interested, (or may remember), I finally finished the
> complete restoration on my 1976 28' Argosy. It took 9 1/2 months, (8 1/2 of
> work, and one month of not being able to get to it.), but my father and I
> did it. I had the opportunity to test all systems on it's maiden voyage
> last weekend, (the Victoria Day weekend), and everything worked flawlessly.
>
> All pictures relating to the restoration can be seen at
> www.angelfire.com/ns2/argosy, so feel free to take a look around and ask any
> questions.
>
> Thanks for all the info I gathered in "lurk" mode while working on this
> project.
>
> Jamie
> '76 28' Argosy
> '95 Chev extended cab
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 19:04:44 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black tank flange
Dave, my recommendation would be to pick your black tank from the styles
available and mount your new toilet wherever the new black tank needs it to
be. I'll send you some photos off list of my home made flange removal tool
although it sounds like you won't need to remove the rusty flange if you are
using all new parts (which I would recommend).
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Osowski, D. B. (David)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 8:12
Subject: [VAC] Re: Black tank flange
> Thanks for the advice Brad. I guess it was a pipe dream (no pun
> intended)
> thinking of some magical way of removal. To answer Terry's and Jame's
> questions: I bought this trailer with heater, toilet, sink, & shower
> gone.
> I will replace with a small bath vanity, sink, & new toilet. There was a
> large hole (rotted away) where the toilet used to be. I dropped the rear
> half of the belly pan, removed the tank housing & tank, removed the
> floor,
> cleaned & painted the frame, and am now ready to install my new
> floor.I'm
> now debating on relocating the toilet off to one side a bit more and
> having
> a custom black tank made. Decisions, decisions.
> Any opinions and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Dave Osowski
> Michigan
> 1966 Overlander
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 19:25:55 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: propane lines
Bob Patterson wrote:
>Thanks all for the propane line info. I'm going to use the black iron pipe
>for a manifold style supply. The 1/2 inch size isn't a problem with me but
>I see the regulator only has a 3/8 inch outlet so could I use a 3/8 inch pipe?
>Bob P
My "knee jerk" reaction was no- but after looking at my
charts, 3/8" would allow 101,000 btu/hr up to 20 feet, so it would
probably work. But.. I would still go for the 1/2", because every
elbow and fitting reduces the flow somewhat, and black iron pipe is
cheap- 1/2" is probably cheaper than 3/8".
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 17:36:48 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Safety Chains
My 66 TradeWind has a poor excuse for a safety chain. Just a single long
chain that appears barely strong enough for a kids swing.
Clearly I need something beefier for my pride and joy (not to mention for
the safety of everyone else on the road)
I called a few local RV dealers to check the preferred method. Some say bolt
a chain to the A-frame, others suggest welding it to the A frame. One even
said I did not need chains if I have a brake break-away switch. Scary that
this was a service person for a large SOB dealer.
Any feedback regarding bolt-on versus welded would be appreciated.
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 17:49:31 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Safety Chains
Welding will change the strength of the chain. The main tendency is to
weaken the metal. I say bolt.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #311
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