Wow, Scott, that's a lot of good info. This gets saved in the gear/rods/lines
folder.
Why slick guides would matter to me:
1. When it's really windy here, like 70% of the time, to get any accurate
distance, I have to really speed up a short cast, power up the last cast, and
then shoot the remaining 1/3rd or so distance. I use 10# flouro because
anything less would make the weighted fly snap off with the inertia (change of
direction). A looping cast will be blown to who knows where. Yeah, everyone
deals with the wind, but they all say Casper's wind is ridiculous after they've
fished here any length of time.
2. When I lake-fish and those spooky buggers are rising like crazy 100' away
and won't take anything closer. And if I'm fishing from the shore and I need
go get past the weed-line, or if I have to shoot distance because of back-side
obstructions.
3. When I saltwater fish and need long casts.
With Casper's wind, I find that the rod's power is much more important than the
guides*.
Then, matching the right line to the rod, sometimes a weight lighter, sometimes
one over.
Keeping in mind my casting technique & timing, which has to change with every
set-up.
* I've never really experimented with guides, so this is a good thread for me.
Keeping the line clean and supple is necessary, unless I'm fishing in cold
weather- supple isn't there.**
Going to try some Shark-skin line to see if that improves my casting distance.
Next show.
** Remember that Casper is the 3rd worst weather in the country. A big portion
of that misery is the wind, a tunneling effect because of the shape of the
mountain ranges around us.
DonO
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Bearden
To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: [VFB] Rene- guides
If double hauling is your thing and you need to reach way out and shoot line,
then the slickness of the guides will dramatically help your cast. Buy the very
best ceramic inserts you can buy. Don't buy the cheap knock offs, buy Fuji and
do all the guides, the stripper, and the tip top. Begin each fishing session
with a clean and lubricated line or none of this will amount to much.
Personally I would only do this on salt water rods or maybe salmon or steelhead
rods. If you are casting beyond 50 or so feet in fresh water for trout then I
have to question how you can cast to a particular rising fish, or see even a
size 14 adams, let alone a size 20 midge. Or for that matter, how do you get a
good drift with multiple currents between you and the fish?
Just to give you guys an idea of how gimmicky this stuff can be, just a
decade ago teflon coated guides were available for custom rod builders and they
didn't last long. Unfortunately fishing equipment is subject to the same rules
of consumerism as anything else. Consumers get bored with otherwise outstanding
products if they are not tweaked and labeled "improved" over last year's model.
If you look over time, the first guides were just a tip top guide and you
beached the fish after swinging a brace of a dozen or more flies through a pool
of fish. Then someone decided they wanted to retrieve the line, so they added
trumpet guides and then later floppy ring guides sometime around or after the
Civil War. Snake guides were used prior to the turn of the century, but didn't
catch on for a couple of decades. After WW2 there were several short lived
guides with cork screws or other catchy gimmicks. REC recoil guides are
interesting, but they have yet to saturate the market. Buy what makes you
happy, and rest easy that if you don't like them, they are fairly inexpensive
compared to anything else going on the rod and they can be replaced if you
don't like them. A lot of this is psychological. So if you have already made up
in your mind what will make you happy on a rod, then by all means satisfy that
desire. If you build a rod you love, then you will fish it more often, and that
is a good thing.
The Sharkskin lines cast a lot like the old silk lines. They make a lot of
noise, but they do cast well. But I don't have much need for long distance
casts.
Scott
On Sat, Sep 18, 2010 at 6:45 PM, Chuck Alexander <chuckalexan...@hughes.net>
wrote:
I think the slickness of the guides, and the shape of the guides on the
regular eyes that have the (usually plastic) inserts, if those are oval, round
etc, I would think that would speed up, or slow down a line. My 1 1/2 cents
worth, Chuck
----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Ordes" <f...@tribcsp.com>
To: <vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [VFB] Rene- guides
Rene,
I dunno... the slickness of the guide material would seem to be more
important than the shape, it you're like shooting the line. Otherwise, it
don't seem to matter much.
That new Sharkskin flyline claims to move thru the guides easier.
Anyone use that yet?
D
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Zillmann"
<rene.zillm...@t-online.de>
To: <vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: [VFB] Rene-
Hi Don,
to the snake/loop guides. When I look at my forecast and with the snake
guides, the line sticks more at the rod's blank, than with single foot
guides. they ensure a bit more distance. Fo the backcast I see no
difference in this point.
your thought?
Rene
Don Ordes wrote:
This is a question for our intrepid Tony the Tiger.
I have both loop guides (single foot) and snake guides (double foot),
and I can't feel a difference.
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