MeddelandeChuck,
This goes for all our fly gear, too, so it is fishing related. No
'revelations' here, either.
See if your modum is made in China, or close by there. One-year failure is
engineered in (end of warranty). Unfortunately, they learned it from us. (The
dark side of capitalism)
I'm trying to steer away from anything MIC, MIM, MIT, MIK, especially anything
to do with machinery. The engineered 'failure part' will be essential to the
operation of the unit and will cost more to replace than buying a new cheap
complete unit. Planned obsolescense is almost as good as planned failure.
Both work to force one to re-purchase the same item over and over.
It's hard to do- sometimes no options, but the extra work and expense to buy
local is worth it to get a better, lasting product. Buying USA made does not
guarantee high quality, so one still has to shop wisely and look at warranties
& service.
Have you seen the cute little Chinese scooters that sell for under $1000? Buy
two- use the second one for parts and be ready to fix it yourself- no shops
will touch them. I looked into them in Moab-had a dealer there with no service
or parts department- selling them in the front foyer of his law office. He was
paying $3-400 for a scooter that he was doubling the price on. Six month
warranty. Did some web research. Ride them for 6 months and then they make
good lawn ornaments after that. The failure parts are just about unfixable, or
more expensive with labor than to just buy a new one. OTOH, a Honda is 4 times
more expensive, but you have something that will last for years and you can get
it fixed.
Oh, and I give the service industries (like cable TV) a hard time for providing
this substandard junk as part of their packages. Our cable TV conveter lasts 6
months and then goes out, and never works that well. Guess where it's made.
Same for the remote. All junk and time consuming.
Off my soap-box for now...
Buggs
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Alexander
To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: [VFB] RE: Zebra midge, brassie, copper john
Nick: Thanks a lot for the tips. I'll also check out the site. Might take me
a day or two though cause this danged HughesNet modem of ours went out (don't
anybody here EVER waste your money on HughesNet, they could have had a tech
bring us a new modem TODAY) and it will be a week or so at least before we get
a new one.No lightening etc. Just went out, and it was only about a year old
cause the first one went out after only a year. Anyway, can't wait to try some
of these flies. Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Niclas Runarsson
To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [VFB] RE: Zebra midge, brassie, copper john
Well, I guess you're entitled to an opinion. Thanks for the warm words. Not
that I would consider them to be 'world class', but always nice to hear that
I've done something right (not counting that last %). It doesn't take me that
much time to tie it. It does have a few steps more than the average fly, but I
don't consider them to add more time than any "average step" would do. The LAST
step however, is the step that makes the difference in time... epoxy time.
Now I see though, that you didn't refer to the fly but to the copper
windings. (Ooops..) Well, anyway... not that much time. My tips to making it
easy: Chose the right wire... soft is the key. Also keep the wire size "close
to too thin" rather than "close to too thick" (you might see that there are
quite a few wraps on those flies). Last... don't just focus on the tapering
when you do the underbody. Make it as flat as you can (untwist the thread too).
The tiniest little bump can make a huge difference to the finished body. It
might not look like much looking at the underbody, but if the bump is in a
place where one wire wrap stays on the back of it and the next falls over on
the other side... it will look like the two first wraps on the top CJ in the
last message. (On the SBS at
http://www.swedneckflyfishing.com/copperjohn_steps.htm, you can see the
underbody of this fly and the little bumps which caused it.) With a perfectly
flat underbody, wrapping with your hand a little bit behind the wrapping point
(so every wrap "slopes" down on the one behind it) and making firm wraps, which
then just CAN'T slide forward (because of the tapering).... then you just can't
fail. :o)
/Nick
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com [mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com] För
Chuck Alexander
Skickat: den 24 januari 2011 16:08
Till: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
Ämne: Re: [VFB] RE: Zebra midge, brassie, copper john
Nick: Those are "world class" flies in my opinion.. I have bought a LOT
of tying books since I began tying, and those are better looking than 99% of
what is in the books. How much time does it take you, for example, to get those
copper windings that "perfect"?? Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Niclas Runarsson
To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 5:10 AM
Subject: RE: [VFB] RE: Zebra midge, brassie, copper john
I guess this would count as the one I USE to tie, with abdomen in
this color, red and chartreuse and in sizes #12-16.
A few "experimental" would be:
The one you see coming from 50 yds away...
... the "Spectral Copper John":
The one you don't see until it hits you in your head...
... the "Ninja Copper John":
The little cute lipstick experiment that never touched water (swap
fly)...
... the "Copper Jane" (#24):
/Nick
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com [mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com]
För Wayne Blake-Hedges
Skickat: den 24 januari 2011 02:42
Till: virtual flybox
Ämne: [VFB] RE: Zebra midge, brassie, copper john
Hi All;
This week we tied zebra midges, brassies, and copper johns,
anyone care to share sizes and colors you use/tie?
Thanks in advance;
Wayneb
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