Here it is with commentary as sent by Harry Boyd
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Harry Boyd <ma...@canerods.com>
Date: Sun, Sep 28, 2014 at 5:52 AM
Subject: Re: Trip Report ... the Au Sable River Days 4 & 5 ... The End
To: flyf...@lsv.uky.edu


Good question Dell.  I think hallowed might be the better choice.

Harry B.

On 9/27/2014 9:37 PM, Dell Coppock wrote:

> Hi Harry, does that make it haunted or hallowed?
> Dell
> Along time ago I had a friend who lived in Alpena.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Harry Boyd
> Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2014 1:31 PM
> To: flyf...@lsv.uky.edu
> Subject: Re: Trip Report ... the Au Sable River Days 4 & 5 ... The End
>
> Wonderful Christian,
>
> I've fished those waters several times.  There are ghosts,
> spirits, about.  They seem to concentrate near Rayburn Lodge.
>
> Harry B
>
> On 9/27/2014 3:06 PM, Christian E. Thalacker wrote:
>
>> Here, midway up Michigan, I am happy to be on the banks of the Au Sable
>> River ... deeply contented, breathing in the cool air as the wind plays in
>> the willow branches, whose leaves cling to me like kittens' drowsy paws.
>> Far away ... the hot, humid summer days in Louisville where frosty alcohol
>> in a can of West Sixth Brewery's porter or wheat beer or pale ale is
>> welcome. Last night at dinner, as every night, there's "only" chilled
>> water
>> ... with big cubes of ice served in tall, thirst-quenching carafes in the
>> lodge's restaurant.
>>
>> Here, I do not miss Beer, or Martinis, or Scotch, or Bourbon.
>>
>> Here, I am recharging deep cell batteries.
>>
>> Last night ... the water so tasted good ... the
>> "coming-back-home-and-sitting-with-your-grandparents-and-
>> rubbing-the-dog's-belly-with-your
>> feet-good" ... after a full day in the sun doing what I love to do ...
>> catching trout on Hoshihara-sensei's bamboo flyrod, wearing old sandals,
>> an
>> untucked shirt & shorts with a tired belt ...
>>
>> In all, I drank three carafes of water, taking a rest to imbibe Lodge Book
>> memories and plow through dinner: local cheeses with honeycomb, dried
>> cherries, toasted nuts and home-baked bread for the appetizer
>> then pistachio & mushroom stuffed chicken with whipped potatoes and beurre
>> blanc for the main course. No dessert, please ... I was only hungry to
>> return to my bunk, read a book and looking forward to a good night's
>> sleep.
>>
>> Waking up around 3 o'clock in the morning, my eyes welcomed ... no clock's
>> red lights, no computer's blue screen, no street lights's fluorescent
>> whiteness ... only an open window, stars and a nearly full moon. My ears
>> were surprised ... no ambulances, no fire trucks, no chasing police
>> sirens.
>> I picked up my new copy of "Rivers of Sand", and continued reading about
>> Josh's exploits and insights where I'd left off ...
>>
>> "It would seem that because the small stream angler is moving
>> deliberately,
>> because she is hiding behind the old muck banks and the piled corpses of
>> trees, that she is fishing slowly, or in place, but she isn't. Ideally,
>> the
>> angler is fishing as fast as possible while still doing it slowly. Deer
>> hunters call this still-hunting." Turning the page, I continued reading
>> ... "In still-hunting, the hunter moves deliberately between objects that
>> provide him cover. He goes from spruce tree, to old stump, and so on. To
>> the wandering eye, the hunter appears still. Yet, he's always in a
>> slightly
>> different place, enjoying a slightly different vantage point. The
>> small-stream angler is the same. He moves from one casting position to the
>> next, adjusting to the ever-altering landscape of the stream. Roll cast.
>> Cross-body cast. Sidearm cast. Steeple cast. On a small stream, a cast is
>> not so much an action as it is a reaction to the topography, or character,
>> of the stream."
>>
>> Agreed. And I continue reading... until awareness of the early morning sun
>> filtering through the window ... while not strong enough to warm my bed,
>> magnified my impulse to get out of bed and open the screen door ... and
>> fish before breakfast ... my last full day and night here.
>>
>> I waded upstream, waiting to cast until I was well past Stephan Bridge
>> ... still-hunting
>> for sunspots in the cold river, I made my way slowly, taking baby steps
>> toward a likely looking fishing hole under a weeping willow tree. Two
>> Brittany spaniels were romping in their yard ... a tight fishing spot ...
>> just enough room for a side-arm cast, I plinked a dry fly ant off a few
>> leaves just above the hole ... just as the smell of coffee reached me and
>> a
>> grave baritone intoned: "you fish that hole the way it's supposed to be
>> fished", a fair sized brown trout gulped my fly.
>>
>> "Thank you for the good luck, sir" as I heeled the fish in and let it go
>> ... and the movie gods could not have cued it better: as soon as the hook
>> was latched to my rod, the dogs jumped in the water for some petting and
>> old tennis ball throwing.
>>
>> "What rod you fishing?" this James Coburn-dead-ringer asked. To my
>> response
>> about Hoshihara-sensei and making a flyrod in Hokkaido, he chortled ... no
>> doubt finding humor that here, in the hallowed backyard of rod-makers Lyle
>> Dickerson, Paul Young and Bob Summers, that I, an anonymous blond-haired
>> green-eyed amateur, was in his backyard fishing hole with a Japanese-made
>> bamboo flyrod ... "who would have thought" he muttered before recounting
>> years of service in Yokohama, and Japanese friends who wanted to buy his
>> Michigan cane classics. After a few minutes of chit-chat, he called his
>> dogs in with a "Tight Lines" ... and I moved further upstream ... where
>> staring me down, lustrous brown mink guarded their territory, hopping from
>> branch to branch. Childhood memories of Rudyard Kipling's Rikki-Tikki-Tavi
>> stories flooded me, and I was glad not to be mink-food. I sat down, on the
>> far sandy bank and began to draw ... until my hunger for the lodge's good
>> food overwhelmed my desire to stay here, under the tamaracks and cedar and
>> white pine and willow, with wild animals guarding over me.
>>
>> Almost at the bridge, the morning's first canoers paddled down-river, and
>> greeted me with a boisterous question, "how's the fishing". I couldn't
>> resist asking with saucer-sized eyes pointing to the breeze-blown tall
>> grasses, "did you see that big bear?" Strange, they didn't linger to see
>> "the bear", and instead paddled faster down-river.
>>
>> At the Lodge's riverside stairs, I shook the water out of my sandals ...
>> and to the bemusement of the flyfishing gods, I used both benches of the
>> picnic table as my personal amadou patch ... hmmm, warm benches. A few
>> minutes later, in the restaurant, at Marvin's Table, out quickly came the
>> coffee and orange juice and then arrived The Tough Morning Decision:
>> choosing whether to eat Cake for Breakfast or the All-Butter Croissant
>> Dipped in Cinnamon-Vanilla Egg Custard topped with Macerated Berries.
>>
>> Life is Good when the toughest decision is between cake or croissants.
>>
>> More people obviously agreed: soon a dad with his two sons entered, nodded
>> and sat down by the window, then a pair of grandparents followed ... I
>> pulled a new book from the corner bookshelf, and over loaded Au Sable hash
>> browns, chorizo sausage, salsa, poached eggs and fresh sourdough toast,
>> began reading old-timers' reminisces of their senior high school summer
>> fishing the Harriman Ranch waters.
>>
>> Knowing that I had "all day" ... that is, until 4 in the afternoon ...
>> when
>> I'd meet my last guide of the week for a last night's canoe trip, I
>> returned to the water, waded upstream and kept going ... and kept going
>> ...
>> until almost lunch-time. I didn't cast much to the jumping and sipping
>> brookies and brownies and the odd rainbow. Mostly, I admired big white
>> pine
>> trees, the birds, and the houses ... and spent time silently admiring the
>> ones that were pleasing to me ... those getaways that managed to be tucked
>> away, a only a weather-vane or chimney-stone visible above the tree-line.
>>
>> Here, I serenely wondered Big Thoughts and little thoughts ... and said
>> prayers for hopes like that kids' days on the water should exclude loud
>> parents drinking and texting and telling them what to do or how to do it
>> ...
>> after hours here, I then do the unthinkable: I check the time ...
>>
>> It's time to head back to the Flyshop to meet tonight's guide. Greetings
>> exchanged in the shop, tonight's the night to explore the Mason Tract,
>> with
>> The Other Josh: sixty percent professional hunting guide + forty percent
>> fly fishing guide. Josh's dad is a full-time forest manager ... and as
>> Josh
>> says with a smile, while his @ss is on the Au Sable, his heart is in the
>> UP
>> ... I smile too. Note to self: next year, visit family roots in the UP,
>> and
>> wet a line.
>>
>> A short drive to the boat-ramp, we're soon in ever-quieting waters. A Big
>> Ant is cast on the first riverbend, and the Hoshihara-rod bends as a HUGE
>> prehistoric black eyed brook trout is diving, flipping, and making a run
>> for the roots. Remembering the week's wise lessons, I keep my rod shifting
>> right, then left as if I'm playing the cello with one hand then the other
>> ... my compassion and esteem for this fish rising until the wonderful
>> feeling: letting this old fish quickly go.
>>
>> The sweet smell of wild cedar so prevalent is new to me ... and yet it is
>> home. As I deeply inhale, my nose and lungs and brain and heart and
>> fingertips and toetips deeply connect to my smile. As we canoe on, a flock
>> of Cedar Waxwings chases mosquitoes, encircling overhead. Nearing a grand
>> Blue
>> Heron, instead of whoomp whoomp whoomping away at the sight of us
>> intruders
>> ... here, in the Mason Tract, as we get nearer, and nearer, it holds ...
>> still ... priest-like perched in its pulpit, The Big Blue Bird tolerates
>> us
>> with a serious stare. There is Wind ... Ripples in the Water ... Leaves,
>> Grass, Flowers ... Canoe ... Fishing Rod ... Line ... Oar ... and we
>> follow
>> the beautiful bends in the river, our path the oak-tanned, tea-stained
>> water. My deep cell batteries are recharging.
>>
>> Here, there is little need for man-made structures to give tiny trout
>> cover
>> to grow into big trout; while sadly, the ash borer beetle has taken its
>> toll on thousands of victims, many dozens fallen in the water hopefully
>> protect the trout.
>>
>> "What is the river like during the Hex Hatch?" I ask. Josh volunteers that
>> THIS is The Place for the Hex hatch ... once you get past the rows of
>> combat-fishing testosterone pushing-and-shoving ... there are quiet spots
>> on the river, and come late June, early July there are few bigger wonders
>> than watching 20 to 30 inch trout gulp terrestrials all day and all night.
>>
>> As I wonder ... about large trout, I switch to the heavier Seele rod and
>> Josh ties on a frog pattern. It's getting darker, and slightly colder. I
>> wished we had hot coffee. Hunting for trout ... still, cast ... still,
>> cast
>> ... poled into position ... moving without moving. I hook fish, and Josh
>> lets them go. This cycle repeats itself quietly, under a nearly full moon.
>>
>> Josh asks me if I'd like to stop by The Mason Tract Chapel, and pay my
>> respects.
>>
>> I would very much. In my breast pocket, an old Kodak film canister
>> protects one
>> of Grampie's dry flies. I've been carrying this since Grampie's funeral
>> more than a decade ago. This fly belongs at the Mason Tract Chapel. Maybe
>> Grampie, maybe my godfather-Uncle Arbie tied it 50+ years ago ... or maybe
>> Grampie got from it from Paul Young or George Griffiths or during one of
>> his Montana summers as the cook-and-chuckwagon-chief.
>>
>> Dragging the pole, we slow in an already slow current. Josh drops anchor
>> and ties the canoe the dock.
>>
>> "To get to the Chapel, follow the path" he directs.
>>
>> Under majestic trees, I whisper prayers to all those flyfishermen I miss,
>> those friends and family who are gone or far away ...  as I walk towards
>> the Chapel. Made of stone, heavy timber and thick slate, with a large
>> glass
>> window opening to the hill-crest, the Chapel's beauty is magnified by its
>> lack of a door. Talk about a Big Tent policy, I think ... and smile. I
>> kneel, and say my prayers. Reaching into my breast pocket, I uncork the
>> film canister, and remove the fly ... Grampie would love to look out here,
>> and here, I leave his dry fly where it belongs, looking at the water.
>>
>> Sandwiches are waiting dockside, which we eat in silence ... broken by a
>> hard slap on the water ... then a fishy splash. "Beavers and trout", Josh
>> says. Closing my eyes ... I am grateful ... and even at 1:30 in the
>> morning
>> ... I did not want to stop fishing. But every journey has an end ... and a
>> place to return to.
>>
>> The End.
>>
>> Christian Thalacker
>>
>> And remember ... Badgers don't fight fair ... that's why God made
>> Dachshunds.
>>
>> PS: interesting links in no particular order ...
>>
>> Old fishing photos http://pickardrod.com/guides.html and rodmaker Lyle
>> Dickerson's equipment http://pickardrod.com/Dickerson.html
>>
>> Rodmaker Bob Summers http://www.rwsummers.com/aboutbob.htm
>>
>> Emerald Ash Borer beetle
>> http://www.emeraldashborer.info/michiganinfo.cfm#sthash.Dx2DCsbB.dpbs
>>
>> Cake for Breakfast and Other Menu Options
>> http://www.gateslodge.com/documents/Gates%20Lodge%20Breakfast%20Menu.pdf
>>
>> Cottages+ for rent in Grayling
>> http://www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/usa/michigan/northeast/grayling
>>
>> Willow trees http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willow
>>
>> Pay Day Loan Sharks and their Lobbyist-Turned-Governor
>> http://bluegrasspolitics.bloginky.com/2009/10/01/
>> beshear-pledges-support-for-payday-lender-cap-despite-fund-raiser/
>>
>> Paul Young Bamboo Fly Rods
>> http://www.vintageflytackle.com/collections/paul-h-young-bamboo-fly-rods
>>
>> Book "Rivers of Sand" by Josh Greenberg
>> http://www.gatesflyshop.com/Rivers-of-Sand-by-Josh-Greenberg_p_550.html
>>
>> Gates Lodge Dinner menu
>> http://www.gateslodge.com/documents/Gates%20Lodge%20Dinner%20Menu.pdf
>> <http://www.gateslodge.com/documents/Gates%20Lodge%20Dinner%20Menu.pdf>
>>
>> Some of Christian's 2014 Au Sable River trip pictures:
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/89369335@N02/
>>
>> Rod-maker Larry Donahe
>> http://www.startribune.com/printarticle/?id=230697711#
>>
>> MacArthur Genius Grant Winner Wilma Subra on Oil Spills+
>> http://www.prx.org/pieces/65000-macarthur-genius-says-
>> bp-disaster-is-far-from-over
>>
>> Books from Robert (aka Supreme Court Judge John Voelker) Traver
>> http://www.schulerbooks.com/search/apachesolr_search/robert%20traver
>>
>>
>
-- 
Harry Boyd
1211 Newman Street
Winnsboro, LA 71295

http://www.canerods.com/  Bamboo Rods
http://www.canerods.com/fixture.html  Fixtures and Ovens
ma...@canerods.com

Shop and Cell phone(318) 282-1825
Home phone(318) 435-5476

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