From: Pete Gramp
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2017 6:22 AM
To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [VFB] Testing, testing... Rope-buggers Picture Palettes
Hi, Don -
I have a question about hackle on your rope dubbed buggers. I've been tieing
in the hackle by the tip at the curve of the hook bend, roping the dubbing but
keeping the hackle out of the rope, rope-dubbing the dubbing, tieing off the
rope-dubbed dubbing, then hackling palmered hackle (not roped) in the creases
made by the rope-dubbed dubbing. But after reading what you sent, it leads me
to think that you actually rope the hackle itself... can you speak to that?
Pete, first, there only are a few ‘rules’ that make the ‘rope-dub’ what
it is:
1. Anchor the dubbing front or back. (Front for roping backwards, at the bend
for roping forwards)
2. Stretch the thread out tight horizontally between the hook and bobbin,
which is held tightly in the left hand to create tension. (for right-hand
tiers) DO NOT hang the bobbin below the hook.
3. Spin the dubbing counterclockwise with fingertips of BOTH HANDS alternately
without allowing back-spin, until the desired tightness is reached.
4. After tight, don’t let go and wrap forward to create segments.
Everything after this is infinite ways to rope-dub IF you keep these 4
points. The DVD has a short intro on the basic steps and movements, but the
rest of the DVD (45 min) is applications and variations. DVD #2 could have
easily been volumes 2 through 10. Hope to be able to get back to DVD work in
earnest after the house move soon. Posted a few Youtube videos just to get set
up, but have a long way to go.
First, whether you did rope the hackle, second whether it is roped with the
dubbing en masse, and third can you speak a little to how this method actually
is, well, how it works? I can't picture it happening - wouldn't you get a
great deal of the hackle fibers trapped under the rope and sticking every which
way, if you roped the hackle?
Everything you use as body-material and hackles is different, therefore
experiment with each one & combination to see what you can achieve for looks,
movement, color, feel, etc. That’s what this whole exercise is about. If you
do only what you are used to and comfortable with, then it’s just a
bugger-swap. Look at your entire inventory of dubbings, chinelles, yarns, etc.
and imagine combinations. Use the palettes for new ideas.
or is that the point, to have them at variate lengths (due to being trapped
under the rope) and to have the hackle fibers sticking at odd angles to the
shank of the hook, all bushy-like?
Either way, my friend. The problem with normally palmered hackle is
that a tooth can easily cut the stem if it’s sitting on top of body material.
If you want to palmer the hackle (the palmered look), then don’t pack the
segments too tight as you wrap, and the hackle will slide down in between the
segments, getting protection from teeth. Don’t forget that you can use more
than one hackle in the palmer, or even rope the hackle(s) by itself for density
and durability. Roping two different hackles (color, length) is another way to
experiment with variations.
One other point, when you rope forward a hackled rope, wrap with the right
hand and pinch-sweep the hackles rearward with your left, once for each segment
wrap. Time the wrap so that it sets down before you let go of the hackles.
This will avoid a bunch of hackles getting wrapped down. This is especially
important with long hackles, like marabous and speys.
But you can also rope the hackle right in with the dubbing, creating a
bushy appearance, like for a wooly-worm or Griffith’s gnat. This is the most
bullet-proof, and wrapping both onto bit tippet material makes for great
salt-water flies. Again, pinch-sweep the hackles back as you wrap.
With some dubbings (not chenilles), rope the dubbing tight to gather it to
the threads, then let off and let the rope unwind. It will stay pretty tight
to the thread now. Then join the hackle and re-rope, WATCHING what happens as
you spin (use the material clip- much faster). Make your adjustments on the
tight thread, compressing the rope as needed to thicken the hackles.
The actual fly takes just moments to tie, but experimenting with the final
looks may take you all evening. But each time you master a fly, you have seen
many versions in getting there, and begin to build your application experience.
Once you master a body and hackle, modifications of that approach are easy.
Try ladder-lace cut down the middle. Make awesome shiny hackles.
I’ve been using the technique for over 30 years and teaching it for 20 years,
and am still constantly experimenting with new dubbings and hackles. It’s a
large part of my tying along with the realistics and giant flies.
I suppose with flowing spey hackle, it isn't as noticeable as with, say, dry
fly hackle, but I'm intrigued with this possibility for both instances (I
realize we were speaking of wooly buggers, which aren't exactly in the "dry
fly" realm... by any stretch... but I am asking more as technique than strictly
for the buggers).
Try it both ways, not just by looks on the vise, but see what the fish
like. You can make buggers look like many swimming baits, from squids to
leeches to minnows to shrimp to something that looks like nothing in the water,
but the fish eat. But every time you rope and experiment, remember every
result -build your data-base of techniques.
If you have a midge hackle, you can hackle a small dry-fly roped body to
help it stay afloat. Whether roped-in or palmered is up to you. Or you can tie
the roped natural fur body and brush it with a wire brush, then trim, to create
the same fuzzy halo, which holds floatant and makes the fly float like a cork.
Just 4 rules and the rest if up to experimentation. Hope this helped.
DonO
Thanks, Don!
Keep on tyin'
-Pete
On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 11:06 AM, DonO <f...@tribcsp.com> wrote:
Mike and others,
If you find one you like and can’t figure out the materials from enlarging
the photo, tell me which fly you are looking at and I will post the recipe.
Then you can change colors to whatever you like.
The important thing is to try to rope dub a new material, even if it is a
cactus chenille or old chenille with new flash component. Or you can submit a
design with sets of different colors. No rules, just fun and experimentation.
I really like the looks of a spey feather (1 or more) roped in with dubbing
or a chenille. Really adds life to the design. Black bugger- row 1 fly 1.
That would be a great steel-head fly in bright colors.
I might do a few versions of that one for my swap-fly.
DonO
From: Michael Bliss
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2017 8:19 AM
To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [VFB] Testing, testing... Rope-buggers Picture Palettes
I got it and waiting for some additional instructions. I found one I want to
try.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 14, 2017, at 6:46 AM, DonO <f...@tribcsp.com> wrote:
Rope-buggers,
Only got one reply on bugger palettes post. Did it get through to everyone?
DonO
From: DonO
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 8:25 PM
To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
Subject: [VFB] Rope-buggers Picture Palettes
Wooly-bugger swappers:
As I promised, here’s some choices of rope-dubbed wooly-buggers. Sorry for
the delay, home staging and visiting is a real routine-buster.
These are samples showing how rope-dubbing can be used with different kinds
of body materials, hackles, synthetics, furs, etc. to achieve different looks
for different fishing.
Pick one, zoom in, and see if you can re-create what I did as a rope-dub
method. A lot of styles are represented, so you may want to try something new
for your box. Ask for materials if you can’t identify them.
<P1010004B[2].jpg>
<P1010006B[2].jpg>
Hang on to your flies for a while before you send, as we just got an offer
on the house and should contract this week. Don’t know when we’ll actually
move, so won’t know the address to send them to for a bit. Latest closing date
will be Jan 8th. Will post my new address when we are ready.
<-164674920514A3DCE2.png> Rope-dub bugger-swap samples
VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL
This album has 2 photos and will be available on OneDrive until
1/12/2018.
<9611746251BC3195A.png>
DonO
Virus-free. www.avg.com
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