Deb,
When I was tying for the resorts and a couple of shops, Wooly buggers were the main 
flies. I could run them off pretty quick on the Norvise. I had one old bobbin and 
three spools. I would load Olive, Black and brown. That covered about all the colors I 
neeeded then. When I started tying Chili Peppers and White River Demons I needed Floro 
Orange and Floro Red. I decided to get some more bobbins and spools. That is when it 
all went down hill. The new bobbins were crap. I quit tying for the shops, I only tie 
for one resort down the road. Nice people and it does give me a few extra dollars for 
toys. I still only use the old bobbin, the new ones stay in the draw
Tony


"Deb Duran" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Tony
>I had a couple of his new bobbins and I ditched them a long time ago. 
>I felt that it wasted the thread and was more inconvenient to use.
>It drove me nuts!!
>I ended up selling the Nor-vise also.  It was an expensive dubbing 
>twister.   :)  I like to wind my materials on very tight and I couldn't 
>do that with the Nor-Vise.  I could see why a production tier would 
>like it but it just didn't work for my kind of tying.
>Deb
>
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
>Behalf Of Tony Spezio
>Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 2:57 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: [VFB] Which is the right knot who really knows? - Now Norvise
>
>Joyce,
>I use the blue dental floss pullers from the Health Care dept.. I bet 
>they are the same thing.
>About the bobbins. A good while back we talked at a good deal about the 
>thread and bobbins. You mentioned you would loose about 18" of thread to 
>preload the bobbin or to lock the bobbin after finishing the fly. I had 
>the old bobbin and you had the new ones. After I got some the new ones I 
>found out what you meant. The old bobbin will preload with a couple of 
>inches of thread extracted. When the fly was finished, Just a pull of 
>about six inches was all that was needed to lock the bobbin. The thread 
>would stay put. To start the next fly you would start the thread on the 
>hook, give the bobbin a light pull and the bobbin would retract right up 
>to the hook. NOT SO with the new bobbins, You have to extract about 18 
>inches of thread to load it. If you don't preload, the bobbin will drop 
>almost to the floor when you start tying and let the bobbin go.  Like 
>you,  I have had long talks with Norm on this. Norm suggests that you 
>preload the bobbin the first time. When the bobbin is pre loaded, keep 
>it that way till your tying session is over. You use a hackle pliers for 
>this, I use the button on the end post as Larry does. To me this would 
>discourage some tyers from using the auto bobbin. I have three sets of 
>the new bobbins that are in the draw seldom used, I use the only old one 
>I have 99% of the time. Another problem is the  hole in the new spools 
>are larger than the old  ones so they are loose in the old retractor. I 
>have put an oversize "0" ring on the old retractor so I can use the new 
>spools and change back to the thinner "0" ring for the old spools
>At times I am forced to use the new bobbin. I preload the spool, re wrap 
>the extended thread back on the spool, one of my new bobbins has the 
>thread extended almost 20" . It seems I always grab that one. This is 
>the bobbin that I lock the thread at the button on the post. The old 
>bobbin is a dream to use, Wish he had a couple that I could get from him.
>Norm says he had to make a change in the spring material because of 
>returns due to spring breakage. I told him I would buy any old type 
>bobbins he might have. He has none for sale.
>Like You, I make it work, but I am not happy with it but then again, it 
>is almost impossible to  tie Norlander style with the auto bobbin.
>Alan,
>When I see you in March I will give you a demo between the two.
>Tony
>
>
>
>
>

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