Tony,
I'm left handed and I tie the way I was
taught. As I sit and face the vice, the bend is
on the left and the eye on the right. I wrap
with my right hand and hold material with my left
hand. I'm just more dexterous that way. I
started with a Cortland tying kit and have
upgraded my vise to a Dan-Vise. I still use most
of the tools that came with the original kit and
have more bobbins that I care to admit, though my
favorite bobbins are the Rite bobbins.
Garry
At 09:31 AM 10/1/2006, you wrote:
Nick has some good pointers, I well just add to this.
If you are tying right handed wrapping away from you,
to remove the twist, grasp the bobbin by the neck and
spin it "TOWARDS" the hook eye. This will untwist the
thread. If you are tying left handed towards you, (I
have seen this done)thread will untwist itself.
Left handed tyers, If I am wrong, correct me. Most
left handed tyers I have seen tie like right handers.
Now that should be a thread, left and right hand
tyers.
Tony
--- Niclas Runarsson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Chuck,
>
> Check out
> http://www.gudebrod.com/fishing2005/BorgerColor.htm
> for an online
> Borger Color System chart.
>
> Further info on your threads:
> Your black 8/0 is a 67 Denier thread. Quite thin
> compared to most other
> manufacturers 8/0's. The fact that you have no
> problem with tying it off
> doesn't surprise me.
> Your 6/0 is a 125 Denier thread which is quite a
> difference to the 8/0. Try
> to untwist it before whip-finishing and see if that
> helps. It did for me.
>
> /Nick
>
>
>
> -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> Från: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] För
> Anthony Spezio
> Skickat: den 1 oktober 2006 14:22
> Till: [email protected]
> Ämne: Re: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question
>
>
> The BCS before the # is BOGER COLOR SYSTEM. A # is
> assigned to a particular color. The 20's are Green
> shades,, 40's Yellow shades, 70's Red shades
> 90's Brown shades and the 100's Dark Colors, Gray's
> Blues and Black.
> Gary Borgers fly pattern recipies are written up
> using
> his coloring system numbers as are some other
> recipes.
> There is a little booklet with the color charts on
> them. You can get one from a flyshop that carries
> Gudebrod thread, they are also available on line.
> "Borger Color System Guide and Data Record Booklet"
> Just for info.
> Tony
>
> --- Chuck Alexander
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > MeddelandeNick: Thanks for the info.. I have only
> > three spools and only tried two.. I have a red
> 6/0
> > #BCS85 125 denier a black 8/0 BCS 118(don't know
> > the denier on it, but I suspect about 80-90, but
> it
> > tied off OK) The one I had trouble with, as I was
> > trying to tie chili peppers with it is a 6/0 Fire
> > Orange BCS77 125 denier...It is the one that gave
> me trouble.. The
> > red, like i said is the same weight, but I haven't
> tried it. I'm
> > starting to think that I just made too many winds
> on the whip finish..
> > Chuck
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Niclas Runarsson
> > To: [email protected]
> > Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 1:16 PM
> > Subject: RE: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question
> >
> >
> > With a 'G' on the rim of the spool, it should be
> > size G polyester thread (250 Denier)... thick
> > thread. Gel spun thread would make it 'GX 1' or
> 'GX
> > 2' on the rim (and the thread white).
> >
> > Gudebrod tying threads are quite generously
> waxed
> > compared to most other threads, but personally
> I've
> > never found it making them 'slippery'. The
> > difference I would note is that it makes them
> easier
> > to dub, they hold the materials better... and it
> > keeps the filaments from coming apart.
> >
> > Which size is it you're having the whip-finish
> > problem with?
> >
> > /Nick
> > -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> > Från: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] För Peter
> Gramp
> > Skickat: den 30 september 2006 19:54
> > Till: [email protected]
> > Ämne: Re: [VFB] Guderbrod Thread Question
> >
> >
> > Hey, Chuck! What type of thread is it? I
> know
> > the brand is Gudebrod, but some of their products
> > are 'slipperier' than others. If it is gel-spun
> (it
> > has a G on the rim of the spool), you can take a
> > quick pass of a lighter to melt it... but I almost
> > always burn some hackle or something - like my
> > goatee - if doing that.) ;) When you tie the
> whip
> > finish, try to do it on bare hook-stem, continuing
> > the thread in the same way it was wrapped just
> > prior. What else... hmm... 6 rotations is plenty
> > for even the largest of flies -- one of my biggest
> > faults 9at least with tying flies) is a monstrous
> > head with a zillion wraps for the whip-finish.
> The
> > bulk of the knot keeps it from tightening fully,
> so
> > it then comes loose and the fly starts to 'un-tie'
> > itself. It could honestly be any number of
> things,
> > but they're the ones I've experienced firsthand,
> and
> > I've seen it often in others, both older tyers and
> > newer ones.
> > Hope that this helps, and feel free to ask
> more
> > questions - though I'll be out fishin' for the
> first
> > time in literally months!
> > Best wishes and tight wraps,
> > Pete
> >
> >
> > On 9/30/06, Chuck Alexander
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> > Folks: It's probably something a "rookie
> tier"
> > like myself is doing wrong, but when Nick brought
> up Guderbrod thread
> > yesterday I think it was..Well, I tried that
> brand, and I CANNOT get
> > the whip finish knot NOT to unravel.. No matter if
> I whip finish
> > 3-4-5-6 etc rounds, if I snipped off the thread
> > really close, it (the knot) would come unraveled,
> > like some of the nylon ropes that there are that
> > just will not hold a knot..Like it has more wax
> than
> > it needed??? So, I have been using Uni Thread and
> > Danville's with no problems..The thread (The
> > Guderbrod) "feels" like great thread, so, am i
> doing
> > something wrong??? Cause I have a few spools and
> > hate to see anything go to waste, Thanks, Chuck
> >
> >
> >
>
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