That is exactly the information I needed.  Thanks!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marc vellat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 3:02 AM
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 12v flywheel on 6v crank question


> First let's correct the nomenclature. The method of
> sealing the flywheel to the crank was changed (from
> gasket to O-ring) in mid`66, predating the switch to
> 12V. So it's more accurate to refer to the components
> as "non-O-ring" and "O-ring" rather than "6V" and
> 12V".
>
> The non-O-ring crank (as would be original equipment
> in your `65) has a short step on the nose; O-ring
> cranks have a longer one to provide a place for the
> O-ring inside the flywheel to reside. If you attempt
> to fit an O-ring 'wheel to a non-O-ring crank, it'll
> bottom out against this step long before it seats
> properly against the end of the crank.
> Simplest solution for your situation is to open up the
> ID of the O-ring flywheel's outer lip. It needs to be
>>55mm (2.165") to fit over a standard-size crank. This
> operation would best be performed on a lathe by a
> machinist, but it IS possible to do yourself with a
> die grinder or Dremel-type tool. Cut a disk out of a
> tin can lid to lay against the dowel-pin surface so
> you can't nick it if your hand should happen to slip
> (this is CRITICAL - damage that surface and the gasket
> won't have a chance of sealing properly). You also
> don't want to nick the thrust surface, but if you
> should happen to that's not such a big deal, just sand
> off any raised burr.
> Note that the early end-play shims have a larger ID
> than the late ones intended for the O-ring crank, too.
> Late shims won't fit over the step on an early crank
> so this is idiot-proof, I mention it mostly for the
> benefit of folks setting the endplay on O-ring cranks
> - they mustn't use the large-ID early shim (even
> though it will fit) because it will hula-hoop around
> and slice right into the crankshaft.
> You may find that you can't get the endplay set to the
> desired .004", even using three of the thickest shims,
> since the gasket adds ~.008" (paper) or ~.012" (metal)
> to the endplay and the O-ring crank was dimensioned so
> as to not use a gasket. If this is the case, don't
> fret over it, just use four shims - I promise it will
> do no harm.
> Anytime you're changing a flywheel/setting endplay on
> ANY ACVW, always make sure that there is NO relative
> motion between the thrust bearing and the case
> contributing to your reading. If you have this problem
> and add shim thickness to reduce the measured total
> endplay, the engine is certain to seize in short
> order.
> Have an assistant clunk the crank back & forth from
> the pulley end while you closely observe the thrust
> bearing for any motion. Placing your fingertips so
> they touch both the case and the bearing flange may
> work better for you than a purely visual inspection.
>
> You're probably aware that you'll need a special
> thickwalled adapter bushing to fit the 12V starter
> into a 6V trans case.
> http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D5765
>
> --- Dan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Howdy all.  It has been about 7 or 8 or 10 years but
>> I'm back on the list.  Glad to hear it is still
>> around.
>>
>> I'm in need of some help.  I'm converting my '65 bus
>> from 6v to 12v.  The 6v starter is shot and the
>> trans is already clearanced for a 12v flywheel.  I
>> have both a 6v and 12v 200mm flywheels and a working
>> 12v starter.  My choices are spending $$$ for a new
>> 6v starter and running the 6v flywheel or using the
>> working 12v starter I already have and swapping to
>> the 12v flywheel.  There is a step in the mating
>> area of the 6v flywheel that the 12v flywheel does
>> not have.  Is there a problem running a 12v flywheel
>> on a 6v crank?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Dan Kinsey
>
>>
>
>
>
> 
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