which carb do you have on your 1600? 28pict1 (1200) 30pict-1 (1966 only 1300) or 67 30pict-1 (1500 SP)....... you guys keep putting fuel filters in your engine compartments better have really fast reaction times and more than 1 fire extinguisher. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Harding" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 8:06 AM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
> > Hello Greg, > > Depending how long you have had this problem the carb is probably the last > thing causing it and the last to attack. > > Most problems with engines are electrical in nature. > > First thing to check is your compression on each cylinder with engine cold > and after squirting oil down the spark plug hole. Then do the same with > engine warm. > You might not have valve or piston ring problems but this will eliminate > the possibility and provide a base measurement for a later date. > > Check carb to manifold bolts and the intake manifold bolts. An air leak > can cause problems so make sure tight and that gasket is good with no > leakes. If in doubt, replace gasket(s) but don't touch carb for now. > > Check vaccume line between carb and distributor. This is cheap stuff so I > always replace if in doubt. If you have a vaccume gauge use that to check > engine vac as you accelerate. This is a wierd science so depends on only > if you have a friend who knows how to read and interpret the gauge > readings. > > Next, check your points...make sure they are at the proper gap and are > super clean. A couple of quick rasp with a flat jewlers file and clean up > with alcohol usually does fine. If badly pitted, replace with new and save > the old as a spare. > > The only good way to check your condensor is to swap/replace with a known > good one. Worth a try and if nothing changes be sure to swap back to the > old old. > > Check spark plug gap and clean. > > Make sure fuel filter is not clogged. > > I've had a intermittently bad coil cause the same problem...swap out a > different known good coil to eliminate that. > > A similar problem was caused once by a clogged fuel line which was > starving the carb. Sometimes a blast with compressed air will fix that > like it did for me. > > Another time it was the fuel tank full of some waste crud from the various > cheap gas stations I was using and the ethonol mixes just coming on line > at the time. If this is the case it might be best if the local bug shop or > radiator removes, cleans and recoats it for you. If really > rusty...replace. > > Sometimes it is actually the fuel pump and the best check is done with a > fuel pump pressure tester. Otherwise, swap out and see what happens. > Always use good new proper fitting fuel lines with all the proper clamps > and fittings! > > Spark plug wires make a difference....put in a new set if they are over 3 > or 4 years old and/or look beat up. I use ACCEL brand with the static > suppression core with the stranded copper core type are excellent also > (but sound bad on the radio). I think age is the main factor here. > > Distributor cap is notorious for causing problems...clean inside and out > with mineral spirits then alcohol. Again, swapping out with a know good > spare is a good way to eliminate problems. I used to do this as a radar > technician in the Navy but would always save my known good spares for > later trouble shooting. > > If you do all of the above and you still have problems it may be the carb > but don't touch it untill you've eliminated everything thing else. If it > is the carb a rebuild kit usually takes care of any problems related to > age and bad fuel. In this case the accelerator pump portion is suspect to > me but rebuild the entire carb while you have it apart. Be sure to use a > see thru fuel filter if you don't have one. I like to be able to see the > gas getting into the carb. > > Hope this is start and hope it helps. > > Bob > > > > > > >> Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 04:37:38 -0600 >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> To: [email protected] >> Subject: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port >> >> Hello, >> >> I have a 66' Beetle with a 1600cc single port engine. The problem >> that I am having is that it will idle with no problems but if you apply >> accelerator the engine coughs and sputters. When I started the car the >> air was cold and it sputtered a little bit from the stop signs. I >> thought nothing of it until after it warmed up and the problem >> continued. I drove it down the freeway and made a couple of stops. Got >> back in the car after being in a store for about 15 minutes, it started >> up ok then when I tried to leave it bucked and jumped and sputtered like >> crazy. I ended up calling a flatbed tow truck to come haul it home. I >> think it may be the carburetor but I am not sure. The carburetor has >> not been overhauled or touched outside of tuning for the past ten >> years. The fuel line is less than a year old. The fuel pump is less >> than three months old. It has an inline fuel filter that I have it >> placed underneath the car away from the engine. The filter looks clear >> of debris. Thinking back I remember from time to time it would act like >> it was flooded when I would start it. Where would y'all begin to look? >> Should I rebuild the carburetor? >> >> Thank you, >> Greg >> >> _______________________________________________ >> vintagvw site list >> [email protected] >> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw > > _________________________________________________________________ > Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows > Live > http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/119462413/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > vintagvw site list > [email protected] > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
