When I did mine I made an adjustable push rod out of a stock rod.  Basically 
cut one in half, trim down then cut some threads and insert threaded rod with 
two locking nuts.  

Install the head torqued to spec.  Do not install the push rods or push rod 
tubes.

Install your adjustable push rod and your rockers with some spacers to account 
for the swivel feet and lash caps (these are a good idea as the provide a 
larger surface area for the swivel feet), check the geometry,  there should be 
no binding when cycling the engine.  If there is binding make the push rod 
shorter.

Check the adjusted rod in a few locations particularly the other side of the 
engine.

If all is well then you now have a properly sized push rod, now you need to 
make eight solid push rods.  I purchased mine from gene berg back in the day.  
Chrome moly, cut them to length and pushed in the ends.

It's been a while but I believe those are the steps.





> On May 25, 2015, at 8:39 PM, Dean Johnson <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> I re-read the info from the machine shop. He thinks the original engine 
> builder, Strictly Foreign, didn't set up the push rod length at all and that 
> I need to do this. That makes sense as they are way off. So who has a good 
> description of measuring proper pushrod length?
> BTW. RISMachine did the head work.
> 
>> On May 26, 2015 4:13 AM, "Dean Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> No, stock rockers.
>> 
>>> On May 25, 2015 5:32 PM, "Daniel Moy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Hi Dean,
>>> 
>>> Did you have ratio rocker arms, if so did you size the push rods?
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On May 25, 2015, at 5:21 PM, Dean Johnson <[email protected]> 
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I am finally installing my rebuilt heads into my 1915 cc engine. I have 
>>>> the heads on, put in the push rods and am test fitting the rocker arms to 
>>>> check geometry.
>>>> I put the shims that had been installed under the shafts originally and 
>>>> there is not nearly enough room for the swivel foot adjusters. Even 
>>>> screwed all the way out, they nearly touch the stems. If I use a thicker 
>>>> shim I am afraid I won't have enough threads for the rocker arm nuts. ( 
>>>> can I back the studs out?) will standard adjusters give me more 
>>>> adjustment? Where is the best graphical description of adjusting the 
>>>> geometry? I don't have a dial indicator so if there is another way to do 
>>>> it, that'd be great.
>>>> Dean
>>>> '71 Super Beetle
>>>> http://deangj.tumblr.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> Dean G. Johnson, PhD
>>>> Postdoctoral Fellow 
>>>> Biomedical Engineering
>>>> McGrath Lab
>>>> University of Rochester
>>>> Robert B. Goergen Hall Rm. 316
>>>> Box 270168
>>>> Rochester, NY 14627
>>>> [email protected]
>>>> Office: 585-273-2156
>>>> Mobile: 315-576-5928
>>>> -- 
>>>> Visit the VintagVW archives at 
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