Thanks Dan, that's good to know. One carb is good to go, as all the pieces
are in good shape. I will check the other and see if the seized pistons are
sealing the opening. If they are I'll leave it. If not, I'll tap it and put
in a set screw, probably will do both at the same time if needed.
Thanks again,
Dean


On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 5:42 PM Dan Moy <[email protected]> wrote:

> Dean, I did not know that they have a cold start circuit and had to look
> it up, from what I read on this thread it sounds like you need to either
> have it working correctly or properly disable (drill and tap a set screw to
> keep the plungers permanently in their lowest position) to avoid idle
> problems.  Check out this thread:
> https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=147467
>
> Regards,
> Dan
>
> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 3:05 PM D Johnson <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Turns out my carbs didn't need much soaking at all, but they were full of
>> 'mud'. The inlet filters were nearly packed with black material. A little
>> simple green, worked a treat, and compressed air ensured that all my
>> passages open. Thank you for the warnings about over soaking.
>>
>> I do have another question though. On one carb, the cold start pistons
>> are immovable. I didn't apply much force as I believe if they are stuck
>> down then I'm good to go. On the other carb, they move freely and I
>> reassembled them as they should be. I, of course, do not have choke levers
>> on these so they shouldn't operate anyway. Before I reinstall the carbs in
>> the car, should I disable the cold start circuits so they don't dribble gas
>> when I don't want it, or I am ok with one stuck down and one free to move
>> (with no way to move it)?
>>
>> BTW the carbs had not been used much as I switched to a single carb due
>> to overly restrictive heads (the dual carbs made no difference). But they
>> had sat with gas in them, my fault, for twenty years.
>>
>> Dean
>> 1971 Super Beetle 1915 cc Dual Weber 44 IDF
>>
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