Thanks for the suggestions Jones. I will give that a try.
On Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 9:19 PM, Jones Beene <jone...@pacbell.net> wrote: > A combination of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide works with nickel-copper > and is very safe. This is often used to etch PCBs. Using a few volts with > the wire as cathode should also load H2. The muriatic may work better on > Nitinol.**** > > ** ** > > This is not precise calorimetry – Terry… you can to call it “thermometry” > and be sure to stir. Just a simple way to gauge the comparative ability to > raise the temp of a known mass of water. Using the specific heat to arrive > at joules and logging the P-in, you can get a ballpark but the basic idea > is *comparative* between a wire that may be slightly gainful and one that > may be slightly endothermic.**** > > ** ** > > The idea is to see if there is anything “obvious” there, before incurring > the expense and time of doing it right. For instance, going from 25C to 75C > in an hour with Constantan at (x)watts P-in vs. 25 C to 65 C with Nitinol > (both wires of the same Ohmic resistance) and everything else being the > same … that would be interesting enough to dig deeper, no?**** > > ** ** > > Ahern’s finding of anomalous endotherm with nickel-titanium is ‘out there’ > in the public record and ought to be corroborated or debunked.**** > > ** ** > > *From:* Jack Cole **** > > ** ** > > I could run some low power electrolysis for a day or two in some diluted > hydrochloric acid. Think that would do the trick? Or do you have another > idea for the acid?**** > > Hydrogen loading will surely be necessary at some level, but can possibly > be accommodated by combination of low pH electrolyte, not so low as to > dissolve the wires… or preferably by preloading etched wires for a day > under H2 pressure and modest heat, or even the simplest expedient which > would be during a slow electro-etching in weak acid- with the wires as > cathodes. The last would be the easiest to try for anyone without H2.**** > > **** > > ** ** >
