You have two options

def user():
     from gluon.tools import Mail
     mail = Mail()
     mail.settings.server = "gae"
*     auth.settings.mailer = mail # needs to bind mail to auth*

     return dict(form=auth(), auth=auth)

or in models (or anywhere)

 mail=auth.settings.mailer
 mail.settings.server = 'gae'

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